tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48348586141150760402024-02-07T21:51:36.791-08:00Front Door AdventuresI love adventures big, and I love adventures small. For a while now, I have been doing my best to live and recreate in a way that will leave something on this beautiful planet after I have rotted in the ground. Sometimes I fall short of my own ideals and admit that I am bundle of contradictions. Front Door Adventures started as a blog about seeking adventure close to home, and has morphed into something I can't explain. Hope you enjoy the ride and find a little inspiration in my words. Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.comBlogger97125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-43484637495961343372017-06-23T22:31:00.002-07:002017-06-23T22:31:46.675-07:00Still Tryin'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Being a Father, a Husband and a Teacher rightfully occupies the majority of my time these days, but I still have strong ambitions to go on adventures that allow me to reach amazing places in difficult and interesting ways.</div>
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With questionable fitness and strong motivation I successfully bike-skied Glacier Peak over Memorial Day weekend. A history of hard work, a pinch of self-imposed suffering and the only weather window of the Cascadian Spring all contributed to the success of this excursion.</div>
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I am most thankful for the great partners who support me in this long-term project, and a wife who understands that adventure is central to the person I am. </div>
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Kloshe Konaway</div>
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Kloshe Nanitch</div>
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Matt </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOc8dxoP61Xveh9jyeJGPSWU3Qh7F5lQvaJuqBCBL7rR0cKZMh5xo-CSDTNWPaiQDxfcr9h0BIFwLmxAjvhbWdG5frKkurcFkiOOGyBAXecvjSCj7VOvDTinhTgZMmryHfmCt3U4Jrc8E0/s1600/IMG_7108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOc8dxoP61Xveh9jyeJGPSWU3Qh7F5lQvaJuqBCBL7rR0cKZMh5xo-CSDTNWPaiQDxfcr9h0BIFwLmxAjvhbWdG5frKkurcFkiOOGyBAXecvjSCj7VOvDTinhTgZMmryHfmCt3U4Jrc8E0/s400/IMG_7108.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The <a href="http://bicycletimesmag.com/first-impressions-redline-conquest-classic/">Redline Conquest Classic</a>. Badass Bike that can handle the demands of daily commuting or light expedition. </div>
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The Mighty <a href="http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/mount-pilchuck">Mount Pilchuck</a> in good spring conditions. Best bang for your buck summit in the Cascades. </div>
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The Mighty Big Four.</div>
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Where the pavement ends.</div>
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Anticipating an un-passable washout on the North Fork of the Sauk, D. Rainey saddled up and rolled the end of the bike approach with me. He could have driven, but stuck with his wing-man; good guy. </div>
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The Bears are up....and they're hungry!</div>
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Snow line.<br />
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D. Rainey, skinning the slopes south of White Mountain with Sloan Mountain on the horizon.</div>
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After setting up camp and letting things firm up a bit, D & I took a leisurely evening ski!</div>
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Skiing in T-shirts is fun.</div>
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Pretty good campsite.<br />
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It's like being on a moon made of snow.</div>
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Pretty ok sunset.</div>
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Parenthood is excellent training for the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_style">Alpine Start</a>, D. Rainey skinning the Gerdine Glacier at Sunrise. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT3FCMNwDAsvQOIn2xqJYsizBNjeYEiYzFaibd_S-VI6vb1WP7fy1ElgzvJ2suDc8CKRZm0Sct9AnBi3mstt31cM3_VanloKSPGQnLS7bwqI9HobxCNxNgYZmHmCRP3_kC8pI15L_cBQE-/s1600/IMG_7096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT3FCMNwDAsvQOIn2xqJYsizBNjeYEiYzFaibd_S-VI6vb1WP7fy1ElgzvJ2suDc8CKRZm0Sct9AnBi3mstt31cM3_VanloKSPGQnLS7bwqI9HobxCNxNgYZmHmCRP3_kC8pI15L_cBQE-/s400/IMG_7096.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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It is truly amazing when weather windows, calendars and fitness can sometimes align to make cool ideas become a reality.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTAJFXcd3UrarOXROj_qyCVbFLNThGF_Emj8tI-es8I9ijlIsffMM-REKvLTWT58HxvsdiIYOYJCOtTtuhJ6cnUoZ48hxcmSxhjvrR1wfI9fsaY8npyzupi8YxZafxd0sd9vLU2eC3FyG/s1600/unnamed-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTAJFXcd3UrarOXROj_qyCVbFLNThGF_Emj8tI-es8I9ijlIsffMM-REKvLTWT58HxvsdiIYOYJCOtTtuhJ6cnUoZ48hxcmSxhjvrR1wfI9fsaY8npyzupi8YxZafxd0sd9vLU2eC3FyG/s400/unnamed-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Big Trees. </div>
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Long ride home.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOL3hByw-VaTeZug1HaE5T64Qu06I-kWw5H7PuEjHeOAITZXNIWjWPGNdz2DGFrPQqrd0XvTZ0v0US3pPZJm897w5g6pMPXRURWRqOg4uHPCV3OlonC9Z1wWXGx6zeKKxHnhjNqJbHPGe0/s1600/IMG_7110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOL3hByw-VaTeZug1HaE5T64Qu06I-kWw5H7PuEjHeOAITZXNIWjWPGNdz2DGFrPQqrd0XvTZ0v0US3pPZJm897w5g6pMPXRURWRqOg4uHPCV3OlonC9Z1wWXGx6zeKKxHnhjNqJbHPGe0/s400/IMG_7110.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2014_Oso_mudslide">The Oso mudslide</a> was the single-most deadly landslide disaster in the history of the United States.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWE9rCMSh-hMVqdC2UimJPwzXPqu_0ZeajnAWL2Jblz5WiYCqwxCTm6m1A9a_HooHXUv9mJcuuzUdDzNScm-8ttI_x2xDoGAj0BrIZkcHv3GdSkZfcvoBQ2TBE7GhbY_qTjGOZhyVMvAt9/s1600/IMG_2750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWE9rCMSh-hMVqdC2UimJPwzXPqu_0ZeajnAWL2Jblz5WiYCqwxCTm6m1A9a_HooHXUv9mJcuuzUdDzNScm-8ttI_x2xDoGAj0BrIZkcHv3GdSkZfcvoBQ2TBE7GhbY_qTjGOZhyVMvAt9/s320/IMG_2750.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ruby Photobomb! Man that girl is cute!</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-36606229223865625482016-01-24T20:02:00.002-08:002016-02-04T06:50:12.353-08:00The Bicycle Story<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The art of living does not consist of preserving and clinging to a particular mood of happiness, but in allowing happiness to change its form without being disappointed by the change, for happiness, like a child, must be allowed to grow up. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">~Charles Morgan</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">There is no denying that the adventure has changed forever here at the Front Door. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Milestones, like the first time Ruby smiled at me, bring a deeper joy than pedaling a </span>bicycle <span style="font-family: inherit;">possesses the power to do. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Like is has for many years, the bicycle stills rolls central to through my life. It carries me daily through the dark and wet Cascadian mornings to a job in which I find meaning, and allows me to provide for the needs my family. For all these these things I am grateful.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few weeks ago, I was offered the opportunity sit down with </span><a href="http://www.joshcohenwrites.com/" style="font-family: inherit;">Josh Cohen</a><span style="font-family: inherit;"> of the <a href="http://www.thebicyclestory.com/">Bicycle Story</a> over a beer and chat a little about the birth, evolution and current status of Front Door Adventures. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Talking with Josh caused me to reflect a bit on my path and think about some of the things that I have been passionate about in my life. It also sparked fond reminiscing of days spent spinning lonely mountain roads, my bike </span>laden <span style="font-family: inherit;">heavily with the kit of adventure and the gentle whisper of fear and self-doubt propelling me onward. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I admire Josh's passion and thoughtful approach to the story of the bicycle and I had a heck of a lot of fun talking to him. I also owe him a thank you for getting me contemplating again about the social and environmental impact of my recreational pursuits, and my next move here at the Front Door.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">You can listen to the full podcast<a href="http://www.thebicyclestory.com/2016/01/episode-3-ditch-your-car-climb-a-mountain/"> here</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Kloshe Konaway</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Kloshe Nanitch </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Matt</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKAY6UQ_lquqqQAbavBioa7UZ6twPIBDmyGEOuCDpJK4ss-VNRkLM1LaxO0tXtxUy84I1p9c0YLWZmnM6cLeXfYUcpmoGQ5stf3PLk74HjQu0Wj0L00VcUo5O14PtLrB7pIuvK4zz0EeR0/s1600/IMG_8789.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKAY6UQ_lquqqQAbavBioa7UZ6twPIBDmyGEOuCDpJK4ss-VNRkLM1LaxO0tXtxUy84I1p9c0YLWZmnM6cLeXfYUcpmoGQ5stf3PLk74HjQu0Wj0L00VcUo5O14PtLrB7pIuvK4zz0EeR0/s320/IMG_8789.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Happy Family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-3829211734579148922015-09-07T22:38:00.000-07:002015-09-16T13:33:38.468-07:00And Then There Were ThreeIt is my opinion that the richest of adventures often wonder far from their intended path. They abound with unforeseen departures, trials and triumphs that stretch the physical, mental and spiritual fortitude of the travelers. <br />
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Seldom do best expeditions arrive exactly at their betrothed destination.<br />
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If someone would have told me a couple years ago that tonight I would lay content, gazing at my infant daughter blissfully dozing on the steady rise and fall of my chest, I would have likely laughed in their face. What I thought was my path of freedom, happiness and <i>Adventure </i>certainly<i> </i>didn't include the responsibility of parenthood. <br />
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Spending much time in the presence of family and the love and faith I have in my wife catalyzed a change in my heart, and seven days after the birth of my beautiful daughter I simply cannot imagine a life without her. The pace may slow down a little here at the Front Door for a while, but I am confident that the uncertainly and joy that Ruby Ruth has brought to my life will guarantee the adventure continues to be grand one.<br />
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Kloshe Konaway<br />
Kloshe Nanitch<br />
<br />
Matt<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCRfbpug5CVoR9UUySsW4hlVN9duparHXfZnWVNEyDKAJ6HKbAF1aV-YEGdN7-AStG9K-e6n86UmBynwv9n1AQEI5i3MC3DxeHkVjISs3lwcAgvLiZOOIO_n72WOBpbF2ohokMQF4wyVX/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCRfbpug5CVoR9UUySsW4hlVN9duparHXfZnWVNEyDKAJ6HKbAF1aV-YEGdN7-AStG9K-e6n86UmBynwv9n1AQEI5i3MC3DxeHkVjISs3lwcAgvLiZOOIO_n72WOBpbF2ohokMQF4wyVX/s320/21.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">BFF: My stunning wife J.Hurst-Alford (photo: <a href="http://www.brockmasonphotography.com/">Brock Mason Photography</a>)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjPH_6PYsjF3yGKdMvHjzWUzjsZW_4qXhtsoz1Edz6pfAgcu1c-Lalwp25oaRV25rAOq0pd3ZsxjntCieIk-rGloVJvJA2mH9Kv8E8bMDmicsgDm6n-P_mb3yisYAJWAo90hC0zbS9Dal/s1600/32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEjPH_6PYsjF3yGKdMvHjzWUzjsZW_4qXhtsoz1Edz6pfAgcu1c-Lalwp25oaRV25rAOq0pd3ZsxjntCieIk-rGloVJvJA2mH9Kv8E8bMDmicsgDm6n-P_mb3yisYAJWAo90hC0zbS9Dal/s320/32.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Love Birds </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">(</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">photo: <a href="http://www.brockmasonphotography.com/">Brock Mason Photography</a>)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbL72PCjwahdgZnM6JPb-2NkNKtkKeGoUmFE3J0gt7zrwyKO1alsonKRV4yZpmJzReU-mwodp23thLPsDJlNxpPlCNxmlx9aQGZBCjSmBkZ9HOzJJlQPvt0E9N86iwRv6mxUN7BAKDE4hX/s1600/IMG_7816.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbL72PCjwahdgZnM6JPb-2NkNKtkKeGoUmFE3J0gt7zrwyKO1alsonKRV4yZpmJzReU-mwodp23thLPsDJlNxpPlCNxmlx9aQGZBCjSmBkZ9HOzJJlQPvt0E9N86iwRv6mxUN7BAKDE4hX/s320/IMG_7816.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tummy time with Daddy! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmr12mHrGT6Ry1S9Cgo5KvwmKpKlMUlCDreqTsKu5wbjQnIonHfN__uVHxWRgCSevky5VZnY2trcpMQEEasj1XT8AABTkb2k5PA1msQUFQogyeXoEi8FfWzbZJ0buLaLqEaOoQ4N1L0i4/s1600/IMG_7848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmr12mHrGT6Ry1S9Cgo5KvwmKpKlMUlCDreqTsKu5wbjQnIonHfN__uVHxWRgCSevky5VZnY2trcpMQEEasj1XT8AABTkb2k5PA1msQUFQogyeXoEi8FfWzbZJ0buLaLqEaOoQ4N1L0i4/s320/IMG_7848.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Ruby fired up about her first bath.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> My heart has been stolen.</span></div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-28422192208661916692014-09-29T21:47:00.001-07:002014-09-29T21:49:03.400-07:00Staycation<i><br /></i>
<i>All good things arrive unto them that wait-and don't die in the meantime.</i><br />
<i>~Mark Twain</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLB4-JKyko89xMEhZxGU3g-FcYbo9DQDxJdXMsrLRiktPIcabKeH8nW1WF4xzXAVevNVxO0zdsnjIwfTcPFCkRH6GoRIhKO4RI2YeMRZmgAzSvC55mKrvprwYAxsjo3WXOnwcIAzWO55ac/s1600/IMG_8841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLB4-JKyko89xMEhZxGU3g-FcYbo9DQDxJdXMsrLRiktPIcabKeH8nW1WF4xzXAVevNVxO0zdsnjIwfTcPFCkRH6GoRIhKO4RI2YeMRZmgAzSvC55mKrvprwYAxsjo3WXOnwcIAzWO55ac/s1600/IMG_8841.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Paul Quibell was born of an impulse buy, a bike crash and the kindness of friends. Thank you Jason, Uncle Lincoln, and Erbeck Sr. </span></div>
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The Adventure doesn't currently travel far from the Front Door. <br />
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Five months pedaling across this great country, another five hopping around the globe and eight weeks living on a fishing boat in Alaska has a way of leaving a guy with little desire to go anywhere that he can't arrive at by foot or his trusty single-speed bike.<br />
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The Surly hangs naked in the man shed, stripped of her usefulness awaiting a new life of adventure. Perfect autumn days in the Northwest offer glimpses of the Olympic Mountains fifty miles to the west, stoking the embers of ambition in my belly. I find myself pouring over maps and guide books, dreaming up ridiculous human powered expeditions that my current level of fitness doesn't even come close to supporting. <i>All in good time, </i>I tell myself. <br />
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Among the many truths that became abundantly apparent in the past year is that I am not getting any younger; the fuse is burning. There are still many things that I wish to do and precious little time to pull them all off. I also know that some things should not be rushed and close to home is a good place for me right now. Chances are the mountains and the crags will still be there in the spring and when Seattle emerges from the dank of winter, I will be ready to answer their call.<br />
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For now though, my daily pedal to work in the dark mist of the Seattle mornings puts a smile on my face and keeps me rolling in the right direction.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch <br />
<br />
Matt<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCENKz-QljyjKFnbCeCfAzlXlWHfUaEXqT29Rd-brN4GooKAi7SRJCdr0-v1Wmn3FpvhNRRyeu8e2Q-uk6TK9HVkWYfxPqi_QZCPKNCjTSqHomUjP059MPtCINXBILk0hZ0adwc84PCFJg/s1600/IMG_8842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCENKz-QljyjKFnbCeCfAzlXlWHfUaEXqT29Rd-brN4GooKAi7SRJCdr0-v1Wmn3FpvhNRRyeu8e2Q-uk6TK9HVkWYfxPqi_QZCPKNCjTSqHomUjP059MPtCINXBILk0hZ0adwc84PCFJg/s1600/IMG_8842.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> I picked up this hand built frame at JRA in Greenwood for a $100. Anyone know Mr. Quibell?</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Urban bouldering is my new hobby. 5.11 without using a car, we'll see what happens.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK33cGtH8klMoP5uFNyA3_AyRYrXj3_fVAiduG1K_AXF456M_sEslPeAUJF4ExVG8cKGaaiEVZSJF1rPit7fgLcaEI2veGwRDb8Nc0RWDRFFyTeH1NYuLVU3LDz2FxyMOrrgmj5zcilTrV/s1600/photo+1-5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK33cGtH8klMoP5uFNyA3_AyRYrXj3_fVAiduG1K_AXF456M_sEslPeAUJF4ExVG8cKGaaiEVZSJF1rPit7fgLcaEI2veGwRDb8Nc0RWDRFFyTeH1NYuLVU3LDz2FxyMOrrgmj5zcilTrV/s1600/photo+1-5.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rad FDA with my best Adventure Buddy ever. Canoe and a Cold One on Lake Washington.</span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-79698340101733390142014-08-17T13:17:00.001-07:002014-08-19T06:59:12.929-07:00The Last Place on Earth<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Glassy water in Ugashik.</div>
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Streams of stubborn white clouds fight the encroaching high pressure, gripping for life to the snowcapped summit of 7000 foot Mount Chiginagak some sixty miles to the southeast. The view that has been teasing me for the past two days is beginning to materialize. Steam lazily piles off the mountain's lateral vent, reminding all that while today the dragon sleeps, tomorrow she may waken in a foul temper. </div>
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The forecasted winds of ten knots have not yet arrived; I am thankful for the gift of a steady boat as I calmly float in the watershed which carries a vulgar reputation for big winds, nasty river bars and challenging working conditions. A permeating scent, the mixture of bag balm, sunscreen and fish assaults my nostrils; offensive but none the less effective in masking the rotten stench of three men living and working on this little boat for the past 21 days. </div>
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KDLG, the local NPR station breaks the peaceful silence. Open Line callers ramble on for what seems an eternity, uninterrupted by the patiently polite host. Radio waves carry messages of love to fisherman and unhurried greetings to relatives in villages so remote that cell phone towers have yet to invaded their skylines. </div>
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The season is winding down.</div>
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We caught 3000 pounds of fish yesterday and are within spitting distance of our 100,000 pound goal. While the psychological pressures of this line of work wear heavily, a successful harvest and being able to count the remaining boat days on one hand seems to keep us all acting benevolently towards each other. A steady stream of jumpers and sharp dorsal fins breaking the surface of the shallows near the muddy shore affirm a late push of fish are riding the flood upstream. </div>
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Sometimes I can't believe this is all real.</div>
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Less than one hundred and fifty-years ago, I imagine that my home in the Puget Sound looked something similar to what greets my eyes now. Mount Rainier towering over hills covered with ancient fir trees so thick that ten men linking arms could not surround. Sockeye Salmon choking the clear running rivers that trickle westward from the glaciers of the Cascade Mountains. Progress however, has changed much of that and while the Northwest is still a beautiful place, it is not the same. <br />
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When Seattle was born in the late 1800's, city planners chopped down hills <a href="http://seattletimes.com/news/local/seattle_history/maps/overview_map.html"> and dumped millions of tons of fill into Elliot bay</a>, erasing the homes, sacred places of worship and livelihood of the Duwamish people who had been living there for thousands of years. We fell most of the old trees and built a robust, but short-lived logging industry for several generations, but annihilated the fragile riparian zones of small streams vital to a breeding salmon. We built hydroelectric dams that were instrumental in crushing Hilter's war machine and helping the Pacific Northwest build one of the strongest and most sustainable economies in the world, but decimated the salmon runs in Washington's great rivers. <br />
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While concentrated environmental and economic efforts have saved Pacific Salmon from extinction, they have largely gone from the Northwest and will not likely return in great numbers until the world as we know it ceases to exist. <a href="http://www.noaanews.noaa.gov/stories2014/20140127_fraserriver.html">In 2013 the US Department of Commerce declared the Washington Frasier River Sockeye a "disaster fishery"</a> citing a 97% drop in revenue over the previous 5-year average. Last week the <a href="http://blog.seattlepi.com/seattlepolitics/2014/08/07/millions-of-fraser-river-salmon-headed-for-mine-disaster-waters/">Seattle PI reported</a> a sludge pond breach at the Imperial Mines Mount Polly gold and copper pit, which resulted in millions of liters of toxic phosphorus, copper, zinc, cobalt, selenium, arsenic, lead, mercury and cadmium flowing into the most prime of Frasier River Salmon spawning beds. I fear this may be a final blow to a dying run and it saddens me beyond tears.</div>
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Living in the world that we do has caused me great depression at times, and I am guilty of often sinking into the pits of pessimism. But the fact of the matter is that we cannot go backwards in the reality we have created; we may only go onward and do our best to create the world we wish our next to generation to inherit.<br />
We are empowered to make decisions every day which have an impact on the health of our environment, and subsequently our own well-being. I write these words not because I am paid to, but because something that became very dear to me this summer is under grave and immediate threat and I feel moved to action. Northern Dynasty, a Canadian mining company has proposed the development of one of the largest open pit mines in the world to be located at the headwaters of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kvichak_River">Kvichak</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nushagak_River">Nushagak</a> Rivers; two of the eight mighty rivers that make up the Bristol Bay watershed. The environmental threat of building a toxic waste dump in the center of the habitat which sustains one of the last great wild salmon runs on Earth cannot be overstated.</div>
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Fisherman fighting multi-national mining cooperations is a laughingly lopsided battle. Money is the king of capitalism and more people in the world desire metal dependent smart phones and laptop computers than care about one of the most important historical, economic and cultural icons of North America. It is also likely true that the "economic potential" of a pebble mine in Bristol Bay far outweighs that of the fishery and tourism that now sustains economy of this far corner of the world. But I guarantee that when the last ounce of gold is stripped from the ground and the fish are all gone, these cooperations will pick up and move to someone else's back yard. In my heart of hearts I hope that our government cares sufficiently about our environmental legacy to stop the development of this mine.</div>
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The irony that I write this piece on a laptop computer is not lost on me. The human condition is wrought with contradiction and I am by no means exempt from being part of the problem. However, I feel with passion that we must protect the few sacred natural renewable resources we have left on this planet and do everything within our power to keep a few places in the world wild. The threat posed by this project is far too great. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">I highly encourage you to follow the links I have provided below and educate yourself on the issue. There are always two sides of a story, and never should we blindly accept information we receive from others. If you are moved to do so, please take a moment to follow this </span><a href="http://salsa3.salsalabs.com/o/50802/p/dia/action3/common/public/?action_KEY=14603" style="font-family: Helvetica;">link</a><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> to the Commercial Fisherman of Bristol Bay website and send the prepared statement to the Environmental Protection Agency urging the passage of proposed protection of Bristol Bay under the Clean Water Act. I also provided a link to the critically acclaimed film series </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><i>In the Same Boat. </i>This documentary poetically illustrates the lives of Bristol Bay Fisherman and I hope you take a few minutes to watch.</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica;">The fight is far from over and needs your support. </span><br />
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Hyas Mahsie</div>
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Matt</div>
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Additional resources:</div>
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<a href="http://www.bbrsda.com/">Bristol Bay Regional Seafood Development Association</a></div>
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<a href="http://fishermenforbristolbay.org/">Commercial Fisherman for Bristol Bay</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.pebblepartnership.com/">The Pebble Partnership</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://tailsfrombristolbay.com/the-films/">In the Same Boat</a></span></div>
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<a href="http://tailsfrombristolbay.com/the-films/">Password for Films: bristolbay1</a></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-43308094130088670702014-08-04T22:18:00.000-07:002014-08-06T19:56:53.059-07:00The Dent of Alaska<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Home. Sweet home. <br />
Clean sheets, warm showers, a bed that doesn't sway with the ocean and reek with the putrid stench of three men living and working on a thirty two foot boat for five long weeks. Despite the fact that Steady Freddy undoubtedly runs the finest kitchen in Bristol Bay, my beautiful wife's home cooking is second to none and nourishes the little aches and pains slowly from this aging vessel of mine.<br />
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There is a grand story to be told of the time I was a rookie deck hand aboard the F/V Potential on Bristol Bay. It is a rich tale, full of characters larger than life and events that one simply must see to believe. Thomas Jefferson once said, <i>The most valuable of all talents is that of never using two words when one will do. </i>The truth is also that some stories should exist only in oral legend until they fade from the memory of those who were there, and become the mist that fogs the space between the fact and fiction of our history. I will be brief.<br />
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I left for Alaska a couple months ago seeking an adventure, but with the eyes and mind of a tourist. Fishing however, has a way of changing a man and pushed me places where I could never have driven myself. The things I learned being a thirty-six year old greenhorn in a game where nobody gives a fuck about where you went to college, the letters in front of your name, or what you think you may have accomplished in your last job has taught me more than I ever could have anticipated. As I lifted off the runway of Dillingham last week, leaving the clean water, expansive green tundra and steaming volcanoes of Southwest Alaska below, I realized that in my chest no longer beat the heart of a traveler, but that of a fisherman.<br />
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Bristol Bay didn't leave an impression on me, it left a dent. Alaska is in my future.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Usual Suspects (photo: Luke Brummer)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">When it comes to chow, Skippy takes care of the boys and Freddy don't mess around. This did not come out of a can.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Alaskan Wild Iris (Iris setosa)…I think.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Groover. Yep, that's it for the boat.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fresh caught Alaskan King Cakes anyone? Tom Douglas ain't got shit on Fast Freddy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Daniel San entrusted with the filleting of the King. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The seals aren't dumb and a gill net full of salmon spells an all you can eat buffet to these clever mammals.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Salmon angels on a 12,000 pound day. You know the fishing is good when Skippy stops to take photos. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhomNEdKe3BL0sx4iiFWCmpRf2G99BU9vYI5UsNvnVdctoXhjtI3qP3k4yAaO2UuiyoXhZ2CKnNJ3qNNIadruBcSi4D05-bDn5vSTdCMnr_-Q_sm37iLqMVDs5gU7HvR_PdihzbdxTanA/s1600/IMG_8596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhomNEdKe3BL0sx4iiFWCmpRf2G99BU9vYI5UsNvnVdctoXhjtI3qP3k4yAaO2UuiyoXhZ2CKnNJ3qNNIadruBcSi4D05-bDn5vSTdCMnr_-Q_sm37iLqMVDs5gU7HvR_PdihzbdxTanA/s1600/IMG_8596.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A</span> t<span style="font-size: x-small;">hree thousand pound round haul is an experience that one enjoys telling stories about, but not necessarily repeating.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ZMh1Q422-2l-0ZZBvi81CktYZaRPkOXJivde0D9jTapoA96Ni24VQId2t4XApTnkRPokxVkwiUQ1wXS7F4mq5_bfpyXlurDcP-pYzWs7RIZviZW6c86P5CFEjYIVKNjdcvQwWNDj2MEd/s1600/IMG_8598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8ZMh1Q422-2l-0ZZBvi81CktYZaRPkOXJivde0D9jTapoA96Ni24VQId2t4XApTnkRPokxVkwiUQ1wXS7F4mq5_bfpyXlurDcP-pYzWs7RIZviZW6c86P5CFEjYIVKNjdcvQwWNDj2MEd/s1600/IMG_8598.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Always a highlight of the day!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtt3HjscVjcgQKU7B5Oyi9yTyhedIoYd3O1FYousrCVqwRyuvzZcTDh7X3xzrXSNl2b391CX4b-TeuvAxDGl92b4rojAqT5JNYBvzCuJwQtJZwwvl-bY-rEQugBo9c1dBeavuYEPbJ9Irm/s1600/IMG_8621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtt3HjscVjcgQKU7B5Oyi9yTyhedIoYd3O1FYousrCVqwRyuvzZcTDh7X3xzrXSNl2b391CX4b-TeuvAxDGl92b4rojAqT5JNYBvzCuJwQtJZwwvl-bY-rEQugBo9c1dBeavuYEPbJ9Irm/s1600/IMG_8621.jpg" height="223" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Pink at night; sailors delight. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlu_e5Ep42AvaiHwu-51e8eD993_QwBVzPhFLOSJRIXfUTINJmmfFRDvV8TuFUC3GdCpcOzG65_1dQPkyHU87l0s5YQqFkekAFnWv9hJQ7sonRU1k-7-W0lIE8DmAJ1JNEorGsKEq8yH4L/s1600/IMG_8622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlu_e5Ep42AvaiHwu-51e8eD993_QwBVzPhFLOSJRIXfUTINJmmfFRDvV8TuFUC3GdCpcOzG65_1dQPkyHU87l0s5YQqFkekAFnWv9hJQ7sonRU1k-7-W0lIE8DmAJ1JNEorGsKEq8yH4L/s1600/IMG_8622.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Skippy gently explaining the intricate details concerning chain of command aboard the F/V Potential to Freddy and me.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiit7HdE9TZockVJ2BWOSfD3rgY17MBXrf2643-i-Gwf_EyERSGtDuaQz8JjDOGXIvYIiM0qz__Vng8zjVgP-t8qTR5kdqqYfrkXH0OhK0fkCRFu9yR1-mpYG8p0l54xGHwYxdBVHPYJqhY/s1600/IMG_8635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiit7HdE9TZockVJ2BWOSfD3rgY17MBXrf2643-i-Gwf_EyERSGtDuaQz8JjDOGXIvYIiM0qz__Vng8zjVgP-t8qTR5kdqqYfrkXH0OhK0fkCRFu9yR1-mpYG8p0l54xGHwYxdBVHPYJqhY/s1600/IMG_8635.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tender lines suck bad, but it's hard to be bent when the sky looks like this. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr1KzrsT6c21QQ3el9g1BAHj6Y5zmSbj0uyvVf8o-tRBG85rT6-1QbzsaICY9R0kwCQBB0qP3_4_V72TqWy5OnmCpzErMHeAk8CiLrZFZrV-0Fi3nNj_6Ocv6jvA5QvgrPaScNhd5HmDOn/s1600/IMG_8689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr1KzrsT6c21QQ3el9g1BAHj6Y5zmSbj0uyvVf8o-tRBG85rT6-1QbzsaICY9R0kwCQBB0qP3_4_V72TqWy5OnmCpzErMHeAk8CiLrZFZrV-0Fi3nNj_6Ocv6jvA5QvgrPaScNhd5HmDOn/s1600/IMG_8689.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hydration stop. Naknek, Alaska.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">How fish gets to market after it is caught. Tender boat, processing boat, transport boat.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6zUXyqKsxBp6es-rMCbqFPSilVY5QDj1cY_-YulmiWDzY0X3jPLzYI3ZapyKjppSZqRmHwXYEhfPgsCgs3lOfXjqD0neKAw9n0f4Rp3OeRGA4dZPGxzsj96KbtAo96cpD1TLKrItROwD/s1600/IMG_8655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6zUXyqKsxBp6es-rMCbqFPSilVY5QDj1cY_-YulmiWDzY0X3jPLzYI3ZapyKjppSZqRmHwXYEhfPgsCgs3lOfXjqD0neKAw9n0f4Rp3OeRGA4dZPGxzsj96KbtAo96cpD1TLKrItROwD/s1600/IMG_8655.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">It's good to be loved and I imagine the only thing that beats mail on a boat is mail in jail. Same same, but different.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihK4HRyhxOEjvMdPpWkVI7OmJUt-9mAZNY0WvcsXFAGRNdxGP6uug-7WAkUp9tRFCyI8LzRFgOqTaz88Zwu2KwArv6q_bxVMZ6Bl2HkkZWyBgEI2xRoG7KccVONwXpcXV_eOcdD6x1CBdY/s1600/IMG_8659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihK4HRyhxOEjvMdPpWkVI7OmJUt-9mAZNY0WvcsXFAGRNdxGP6uug-7WAkUp9tRFCyI8LzRFgOqTaz88Zwu2KwArv6q_bxVMZ6Bl2HkkZWyBgEI2xRoG7KccVONwXpcXV_eOcdD6x1CBdY/s1600/IMG_8659.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Matt's view for most of the summer.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDYUOSQp9y5fNQqYfSJ_anaROA6owXLNtO8FeH4boO1Om_IL9XOsPqF3xBwkLyD_hwKf5Eae2Ppcg1qjvVM-0fP8VjA4qFsOXehPyskIq55IczsqJZOSAPnl0DeOfACaHivEmyuhLMDiu/s1600/IMG_8667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDYUOSQp9y5fNQqYfSJ_anaROA6owXLNtO8FeH4boO1Om_IL9XOsPqF3xBwkLyD_hwKf5Eae2Ppcg1qjvVM-0fP8VjA4qFsOXehPyskIq55IczsqJZOSAPnl0DeOfACaHivEmyuhLMDiu/s1600/IMG_8667.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Boxing drills make the long hours of scratch fishing pass a little faster and keep you warm on snotty Bristol Bay days. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TJRZe_GvRYjNZuDQ2D4K-CaoW6AoHAUFHjPpBIAbrfYLGlYzdx8s2EjvKBIJ7yONGMSPtRYZXSmGbPIn6JAEosNjEoc4_FjYnWb-Z6GE7ciwpdJ8JtxYNHqlY_5hu7oV95dgzv-OmdGz/s1600/IMG_8693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TJRZe_GvRYjNZuDQ2D4K-CaoW6AoHAUFHjPpBIAbrfYLGlYzdx8s2EjvKBIJ7yONGMSPtRYZXSmGbPIn6JAEosNjEoc4_FjYnWb-Z6GE7ciwpdJ8JtxYNHqlY_5hu7oV95dgzv-OmdGz/s1600/IMG_8693.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Alaska State Patrol is unabashed in their presence on the Johnston Hill Line.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCYLJg2DLeLNwgbE7tciKGZj-Vs3ncPBdDR7-vG6-xc_9nQfEcVAj7PvwvZitBIlW2Iy6oVmnUPAbD9fxn9PJRf6BEoP6TDqTSkKZJCXm-lUycmn-3vJeSFkzSZY6yVtKDVZO49AeAyiG/s1600/IMG_8694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCYLJg2DLeLNwgbE7tciKGZj-Vs3ncPBdDR7-vG6-xc_9nQfEcVAj7PvwvZitBIlW2Iy6oVmnUPAbD9fxn9PJRf6BEoP6TDqTSkKZJCXm-lUycmn-3vJeSFkzSZY6yVtKDVZO49AeAyiG/s1600/IMG_8694.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Ghost River. I have the upmost respect for the fish that we harvest from the ocean. The cycle that sustains this ecosystem never ceases to amaze me, even as the rotting carcasses of spawned fish ride the rip tide down the river.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUEM5hjABJ1lEaa52gr3u2q-9DtyKhglpsZjjLybh_EapBjPlsauDYu-NCAOSo7OW-KRxVvFlDJGWi92nrX1tjXVZAr8dI6Vl0LROWSw0nW7v2EJGIhLvPuqg_ylCpDQon1xa4syjhqgEc/s1600/IMG_8707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUEM5hjABJ1lEaa52gr3u2q-9DtyKhglpsZjjLybh_EapBjPlsauDYu-NCAOSo7OW-KRxVvFlDJGWi92nrX1tjXVZAr8dI6Vl0LROWSw0nW7v2EJGIhLvPuqg_ylCpDQon1xa4syjhqgEc/s1600/IMG_8707.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Freddy is the Man. Bacon donuts with maple syrup. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiriNq256uwU4IlDqCIbCw6s8Uk3C-6-N8KOWqsSegc1j6bbol4lDZCFi-BvdVBCozHWCgRdHPPTJzWDDfy7AtZWoLqzYb-Bp8SZmbYnqM9wP5IuzP0CW-L7OIT6YeVHYVwuPhIUJFeX4tP/s1600/IMG_8678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiriNq256uwU4IlDqCIbCw6s8Uk3C-6-N8KOWqsSegc1j6bbol4lDZCFi-BvdVBCozHWCgRdHPPTJzWDDfy7AtZWoLqzYb-Bp8SZmbYnqM9wP5IuzP0CW-L7OIT6YeVHYVwuPhIUJFeX4tP/s1600/IMG_8678.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> <i>It's not about the shit you get into, it's how you get out of it~Frank Cranborne F/V Herbert Cecil. </i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Some quick thinking and fancy driving kept our net from wrapping the Alaskan Reefer…by about six inches.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXIeGifSeuKU81VPyzyq-9OpsTw8y62OAQsKUewptqmOix9dZH2TmDiVaPU2Wfk1b64Gf0260Z_cZEyTH2frW-7wRAlZWyVeb2CAJT5UexiAU5HCHunPPe09wAw3SLvzgipv1X8djw8Nob/s1600/IMG_8709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXIeGifSeuKU81VPyzyq-9OpsTw8y62OAQsKUewptqmOix9dZH2TmDiVaPU2Wfk1b64Gf0260Z_cZEyTH2frW-7wRAlZWyVeb2CAJT5UexiAU5HCHunPPe09wAw3SLvzgipv1X8djw8Nob/s1600/IMG_8709.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzmDYCGtLN5Opb7-caNAoySLuj0omE2TzmSEjA9gcNQ1mD0-xb2U5W8RUjmvas1eDTnMFpkD6kMgJu8Ql8mgr2KGDXU97ITQkT0b2PJJi4kMwNfB9BapyNiI7C58FN5gQZVKnOyQp3CXJ/s1600/IMG_8714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzmDYCGtLN5Opb7-caNAoySLuj0omE2TzmSEjA9gcNQ1mD0-xb2U5W8RUjmvas1eDTnMFpkD6kMgJu8Ql8mgr2KGDXU97ITQkT0b2PJJi4kMwNfB9BapyNiI7C58FN5gQZVKnOyQp3CXJ/s1600/IMG_8714.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> BfF. Skippy and Freddy have been fishing together a long time, and boats have a way of bringing out the best and worst in all of us. I respect their ability to maintain a tight friendship despite the stress that is inherent to fishing and living in a small space. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5A5cPTbEi4lTl3YIp_wJEQLqeYUpu34PHaqYgKwJ967cZ_IV0kftZCp6hhQEYw82RN3O_PaIp5UFo7N_ecidtqzPTBM_qGsVLbgMORHMWF8-QiBDI_Bqa8ImEVsGlNpZ2PVflGDKHj8L-/s1600/IMG_8704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5A5cPTbEi4lTl3YIp_wJEQLqeYUpu34PHaqYgKwJ967cZ_IV0kftZCp6hhQEYw82RN3O_PaIp5UFo7N_ecidtqzPTBM_qGsVLbgMORHMWF8-QiBDI_Bqa8ImEVsGlNpZ2PVflGDKHj8L-/s1600/IMG_8704.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kowalski is a legend. True friends send you treats in the mail!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">You can take a boy out of Pullman, but you can never take the Pullman out of a boy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Your friends will make fun of you for a long time if you do this and manage not to sink your boat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Steak, real mashed potatoes and fresh greens celebrate 100,000 pounds of catch in the 2014 season. As much as I like eating rice and fish every day, I feel pretty fortunate to work for a guy who understands that what you put in your employees is directly related to what you get out of them.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mount Chiginangak dominates the skyline of the Ugashik watershed and makes me imagine what the Puget Sound may have looked like one hundred years ago. High ski potential.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">As much as I like bears, I didn't mind not running into this fella. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Be advised that entering into a practical joke competition with Myagi likely won't turn out in your favor.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Beard love. When I told Jenny that I was going to shave clean she begged me to keep the nest. I compromised with a number four trim. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Smoked Chum love.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">That about sums it up. (Photo credit: Luke Brummer)</span><br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-26491042296505727232014-06-29T19:39:00.000-07:002014-08-06T19:56:27.887-07:00Fish Hunt<div style="orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The fish hunt begins and ends on Queens Slough of the Nushagak River. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wake up to take a leak off the starboard side of the of boat at ten pm and notice the muddy waters below bubbling and rolling with what looks to me like thousands of jumping fish. I stick the dip net into the strong flood and immediately snag two 7 pound fish. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My Dad tells stories his father told him of salmon so thick on the Pilchuck River in Snohmohish that you could walk across their backs to the other side. I wonder if half the fisherman in Bristol Bay realize that this may be the last place on earth that this phenomenon occurs; I am thankful to be fishing for a captain that does.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The fact that I have slept less than ten hours in the past one hundred and twenty, combined with the eternal twilight of the Alaskan Summer has an amazing ability to blur a week into one long day. It robs one of any concrete perception of time passing and event sequencing. There are however a few vivid moments that will be etched in my brain for the remainder of my days. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fishing the South Line of the Nushagak in mellow seas under fine skies I watched Tom roll the <i>Crawdad </i>into the two foot swells of the the flood tide and his crew toss the gear into the water. We turned the same corner and set off his forward buoy as Tom's net exploded with five thousand pounds of glistening Sockeye Salmon. We cheered across the water and pumped our fists into the air for the success of our friends. I watched Elijah agonize in frustration over missing a <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">huge set for the rest of the day.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hauled six hundred pounds of fish by hand into the stern of the <i>Potential</i> as we drifted ever closer to "The Line" as Fish and Game airplanes ran patrol five hundred feet over our heads. I pulled harder on that line than have pulled on anything in a long while. Better a couple of sore shoulders then a $5,000 ticket in the mail and chat with the State Patrol. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fishing being frustratingly slow, Elijah bucked the opinion of our radio group and followed a hunch borne of many years of fishing this watershed. Flounder Flats rolled fast, muddy and shallow in a strong western wind as we stood on the deck fruitlessly scanning the choppy waters for jumpers. Our nets hit the water at six am and immediately sunk under the weight of thousands of pounds of fish. We spent the next four hours furiously picking fish, rotating gear and dragging our nets against a tide that pulled the dangerously shallow water out from under our boat. <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Seven thousand pounds heavier with fish we tugged west into growing winds and short-set another five hundred pounds as the sun sunk lower in the western sky. A good day at the office. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stand in the stern pilothouse of the <i>Potential</i> picking 384 beautiful Sockeye Salmon with Freddy as a soggy wet northwest wind slammed five foots swells over the side of the boat. I pull one fish from the net for every three gracefully extracted by Myagi. Despite being cold, wet and exhausted I giggled at the fact that I am dropping my pick less frequently, my cussing in frustration has become negligible and I am possibly being more of a help than a hinderance at the net.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nothing says break time quite like Tamales and Coors Light for breakfast. Elijah announced this morning that we are transferring to the Naknek Kvichack watershed. By law we must stand down forty-eight hours before we can set another net, and to be honest, I am more than ready for a break. We motored up the Nushagak and dropped anchor in the flat waters of Queens Slough, sheltered from the wind in the low tide. <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Those who have followed the pages of Front Door Adventures will know that I do not cower from tasks that require a fair amount of effort, but working the Nushagak River for the past 120 hours is by far the most physically and mentally challenging thing I have done in a while.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thus far the <i>F/V Potential</i> has tendered 31,263 pounds of fish. Not only am I finding the adventure that I sought out, but I am learning much more than I anticipated and I feel pretty darn good about being part of an industry that delivers <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">the cleanest and most sustainable seafood in the world.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kloshe konaway</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Kloshe nanitch</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Matt</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaDhH7WxzboVWzD6Jb2wHxDRoniEPsrgiOFF04CecuX34A6MWXRJ5jzVf1odJb1lhQuRPV5CeUagUn6X0og9QIFgcNwpGd39VUmYHWcOcLgL1I0HzaTsb9rjiirbm1f8e_sfKejNdPQv2-/s1600/IMG_8437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaDhH7WxzboVWzD6Jb2wHxDRoniEPsrgiOFF04CecuX34A6MWXRJ5jzVf1odJb1lhQuRPV5CeUagUn6X0og9QIFgcNwpGd39VUmYHWcOcLgL1I0HzaTsb9rjiirbm1f8e_sfKejNdPQv2-/s1600/IMG_8437.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Sometimes things go sideways on a boat, and rehearsal for emergencies is essential. Fire, flood, man-over-board and abandon ship drill are performed and documented on a monthly basis. Not only do these drills mentally prepare crew members for emergencies, they also identify equipment that is not functioning properly. I sleep better at night with the confidence of knowing how deal with shit hitting the fan.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwK-AlNVIeYIIuvQpG_57QJ5MxmyEh_sC1r2qbmsF6OaNlSbmzEsy3MGv5mF69eAtOX5JiCf3UuMZQrkuD5cap86YmCq-B7rUeDa8f4B9Gv8nSkel8TApzmZZ5fQF_c_0bm0xrwVV3WbeM/s1600/IMG_8439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwK-AlNVIeYIIuvQpG_57QJ5MxmyEh_sC1r2qbmsF6OaNlSbmzEsy3MGv5mF69eAtOX5JiCf3UuMZQrkuD5cap86YmCq-B7rUeDa8f4B9Gv8nSkel8TApzmZZ5fQF_c_0bm0xrwVV3WbeM/s1600/IMG_8439.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> Abandon Ship Kit.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPbKbHuMCylcZYICyk3K_iHKBuIb2b8IiANkKLLqpg4rZSRja3AaELOlRDXvWNgIej5fmyxco6xRtKZwB0vzJmoCofHGI5YJEWVwChA9lZXFqxtKmViFbDfr2C8HUVL0YpLrh4bWKcsOZG/s1600/IMG_8453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPbKbHuMCylcZYICyk3K_iHKBuIb2b8IiANkKLLqpg4rZSRja3AaELOlRDXvWNgIej5fmyxco6xRtKZwB0vzJmoCofHGI5YJEWVwChA9lZXFqxtKmViFbDfr2C8HUVL0YpLrh4bWKcsOZG/s1600/IMG_8453.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Dip netting fun. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0mhp1EC3PJW599GCHQjpKVjbRTTt6Armfk2chEXmQqpAbYwF-P5M0QoaZv1aqD72EGdqC317zMGHaLAJJisN_YiPQF8l1jGXXuOciWNRfCAd0zgkG_azGyRSknpxfT4VFsNGwqOmsBOMy/s1600/IMG_8454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0mhp1EC3PJW599GCHQjpKVjbRTTt6Armfk2chEXmQqpAbYwF-P5M0QoaZv1aqD72EGdqC317zMGHaLAJJisN_YiPQF8l1jGXXuOciWNRfCAd0zgkG_azGyRSknpxfT4VFsNGwqOmsBOMy/s1600/IMG_8454.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">We are by far the best fed crew in Bristol Bay. Fred don't mess around.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivtvoWpdEQZHlZapb4apsHtjsX7jtq4aS5mAuTvtIIMwRlHqgGG3ODr70ap4XfoB2PXjjOl3iYOy3ETiiwx9B90WZRzQ69TlXyTvlWh4a1C_8t1WPHUIRbcblKvddDCHowLd8OGPhVLkL9/s1600/IMG_8517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivtvoWpdEQZHlZapb4apsHtjsX7jtq4aS5mAuTvtIIMwRlHqgGG3ODr70ap4XfoB2PXjjOl3iYOy3ETiiwx9B90WZRzQ69TlXyTvlWh4a1C_8t1WPHUIRbcblKvddDCHowLd8OGPhVLkL9/s1600/IMG_8517.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Fresh sprouts prevent scurvy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJ_S5QGSgpA_qV0Hx1zbolbZee3OOOr38VVmmoSnwLr2G-osFZ4M78jibcvvmdkjn0OXn_XFCqaJitf92bcz_lFHtGAOxb3AJojpsl9wQVVrTIVGgKjZ0MuIbBCTyoO4-B-wlNaL7i3R7/s1600/IMG_8451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJ_S5QGSgpA_qV0Hx1zbolbZee3OOOr38VVmmoSnwLr2G-osFZ4M78jibcvvmdkjn0OXn_XFCqaJitf92bcz_lFHtGAOxb3AJojpsl9wQVVrTIVGgKjZ0MuIbBCTyoO4-B-wlNaL7i3R7/s1600/IMG_8451.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Mid-western cheesy potato hot dish. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE57CQvrete6tEQSxndkO3mH5lLKU6RwklTvwsLucY6m1UpU7Dmnek2hSFr-QNAgFganRqkkuH-cFrmW5Q56Gx0rtOQWacisv2qJQI7HFkTLXE0qsVJulRpTHGj9BqxHPpY0YJBDsDhh1/s1600/IMG_8463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE57CQvrete6tEQSxndkO3mH5lLKU6RwklTvwsLucY6m1UpU7Dmnek2hSFr-QNAgFganRqkkuH-cFrmW5Q56Gx0rtOQWacisv2qJQI7HFkTLXE0qsVJulRpTHGj9BqxHPpY0YJBDsDhh1/s1600/IMG_8463.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Taco Tuesday.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESMJHkFeH5DmKN65APWEyTyK4NJThSLffdlWmuFj0H5U1vGetuWQTfqYUBkh61fA7bbc0AB8O3fxy5sQKoJNi7EAhLhyBMI8aBXgMgyYKfIHYFH1-giankysa7Lx-raYfAjWhsXdQZGXM/s1600/IMG_8458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESMJHkFeH5DmKN65APWEyTyK4NJThSLffdlWmuFj0H5U1vGetuWQTfqYUBkh61fA7bbc0AB8O3fxy5sQKoJNi7EAhLhyBMI8aBXgMgyYKfIHYFH1-giankysa7Lx-raYfAjWhsXdQZGXM/s1600/IMG_8458.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Toasted King Salmon Sandwich. Living the Dream. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEGpnCzFgLpUn-vMLC8pum-nZm6cY0MfhjgFiR7ntvuw9SP22Jnik6Dwp_34bEEu0qXKwR27i3HR5B5viKH-M0-hy4Tia4vp0C5rQzGXNNs9ZWoPNJa4mzuW6uVQvFc_ciukATcc2bmtq/s1600/IMG_8473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEGpnCzFgLpUn-vMLC8pum-nZm6cY0MfhjgFiR7ntvuw9SP22Jnik6Dwp_34bEEu0qXKwR27i3HR5B5viKH-M0-hy4Tia4vp0C5rQzGXNNs9ZWoPNJa4mzuW6uVQvFc_ciukATcc2bmtq/s1600/IMG_8473.JPG" height="223" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Clark's Point cannery. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS7fpdnpY-de8eoj8J4ozbPSKznMP3D5b8YmZqSptblGn48tyIKZj4Zrs7TIEJGGZ2rKHGQBXefJepM3POmyL6lhRsI6Nc3rLX_W57lhvK04csG0juQJ0rvm0GiNkHyE7uNBkep4bWrXjB/s1600/IMG_8481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS7fpdnpY-de8eoj8J4ozbPSKznMP3D5b8YmZqSptblGn48tyIKZj4Zrs7TIEJGGZ2rKHGQBXefJepM3POmyL6lhRsI6Nc3rLX_W57lhvK04csG0juQJ0rvm0GiNkHyE7uNBkep4bWrXjB/s1600/IMG_8481.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Tying to and unloading fish onto tender boats is by far the most dangerous aspect of commercial salmon fishing. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp1RbQhjLncGPkdEXvTmLYBzkY-RCTSwsEFkyTV83GDLSg4mr95rwjmjU4L9Psv-LGSWEDrlje2tSQMSCkZhhjzcMtmd83C421ar-T0Hj8jCgPNcoYGA4A_92nQ3haorsUTDfcs94sHlqE/s1600/IMG_8489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp1RbQhjLncGPkdEXvTmLYBzkY-RCTSwsEFkyTV83GDLSg4mr95rwjmjU4L9Psv-LGSWEDrlje2tSQMSCkZhhjzcMtmd83C421ar-T0Hj8jCgPNcoYGA4A_92nQ3haorsUTDfcs94sHlqE/s1600/IMG_8489.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Three thousand pounds of fresh fish.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVTxQmBUp-ofOeSF6BtfPJFquXZirNcFBc3v0d14mXnUg7wlReveZwr0WZKZOaCod45c9EiLarY7_COz2kAZZkJKePCvXlH7UPGtzknCe7-BW_gUrtgEMNbBriFEqlqss-CosOV3zw5GR/s1600/IMG_8490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVTxQmBUp-ofOeSF6BtfPJFquXZirNcFBc3v0d14mXnUg7wlReveZwr0WZKZOaCod45c9EiLarY7_COz2kAZZkJKePCvXlH7UPGtzknCe7-BW_gUrtgEMNbBriFEqlqss-CosOV3zw5GR/s1600/IMG_8490.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6J_mX7kVz6VTVHG6X_Cav7iOrF-Nsp1xBn_PWBvNGNVItgwv1TceoWTg39w0mbEkybwdBMqnPqZhfqSXigpVEg5-K4CKRAJqaYltAh3XVkDUpiu7nftcAC6ELKqPH56qmUhGizEAGw6E6/s1600/IMG_8493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6J_mX7kVz6VTVHG6X_Cav7iOrF-Nsp1xBn_PWBvNGNVItgwv1TceoWTg39w0mbEkybwdBMqnPqZhfqSXigpVEg5-K4CKRAJqaYltAh3XVkDUpiu7nftcAC6ELKqPH56qmUhGizEAGw6E6/s1600/IMG_8493.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">My view from the the stern pilot house.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJCt6WvLxxmOBBKXPjPxR99Bhtm34Ijvr3xCBpz05nC0nFhUS77Acxvp13u3AnbKf6huz_sJq1l5R04yJHln0HWFX5rNRKGAIR6yQPIszOtTgExHiXEAcv4n8YUstMdWppyUjjiYVo2uH/s1600/IMG_8501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJCt6WvLxxmOBBKXPjPxR99Bhtm34Ijvr3xCBpz05nC0nFhUS77Acxvp13u3AnbKf6huz_sJq1l5R04yJHln0HWFX5rNRKGAIR6yQPIszOtTgExHiXEAcv4n8YUstMdWppyUjjiYVo2uH/s1600/IMG_8501.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Sunrise always brings a little warmth to snotty wet & cold nights.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzVQjzys4hFu9jqGXoGulgzph7VX76c0b-L1cuIhacGZqcaMFaCD4L2GJX2_8a30FlkRzhifN-_XRuyiJ5sgdPMGkKqIaFOe_g7vgsGBSiMMr8ZHNJ5W19zcZ1lsPtDtxydnA44VNhmGA0/s1600/IMG_8513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzVQjzys4hFu9jqGXoGulgzph7VX76c0b-L1cuIhacGZqcaMFaCD4L2GJX2_8a30FlkRzhifN-_XRuyiJ5sgdPMGkKqIaFOe_g7vgsGBSiMMr8ZHNJ5W19zcZ1lsPtDtxydnA44VNhmGA0/s1600/IMG_8513.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-d-T_6Cs7JfgLGEb52qsuPXSnWG3BZsm5osJdHwTXiSv1Znv4Sfl-IuZEzxHIlXb4kGTZichzjaMmD5F3d58kX3AmuEjBJsqlRw4rhN_sOtVUkSdJmQ7ahZLDIXL7AA3MZgfQGLfFQVe_/s1600/IMG_8526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-d-T_6Cs7JfgLGEb52qsuPXSnWG3BZsm5osJdHwTXiSv1Znv4Sfl-IuZEzxHIlXb4kGTZichzjaMmD5F3d58kX3AmuEjBJsqlRw4rhN_sOtVUkSdJmQ7ahZLDIXL7AA3MZgfQGLfFQVe_/s1600/IMG_8526.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Write this down. Flounder Flats with a strong westerly and an ebb tide.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfoaBRbt_ZMZzzwoCOBgUfL-1DqE-nqoRtKmn_SgeRXcPKe9FwSB4eGaDLXu0Sq9OrRHz8oDpI6X8yhsQ6vZ7ViMUcO9gtT6lHR5mUtr7TCRn5z0dK2gVQ4NQCr_3JHrzyCrjhOffN-C4q/s1600/IMG_8525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfoaBRbt_ZMZzzwoCOBgUfL-1DqE-nqoRtKmn_SgeRXcPKe9FwSB4eGaDLXu0Sq9OrRHz8oDpI6X8yhsQ6vZ7ViMUcO9gtT6lHR5mUtr7TCRn5z0dK2gVQ4NQCr_3JHrzyCrjhOffN-C4q/s1600/IMG_8525.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">The end of one hundred and twenty hour shifts calls for a celebration breakfast. </span></span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-1613944882450418632014-06-20T20:25:00.002-07:002014-08-06T19:56:00.158-07:00Learning curve<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ten hours of dremel tooling and sandpaper joined our ancient stub shaft and downsized drum bearing perfectly in mechanical matrimony and we checked the last box on our endless punch list of to-do's before launching the <i>F/V Potential </i>into the muddy cold waters of the Nushagak River and setting afloat for the 2014 Sockeye Salmon season.<br />
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We motored a couple hours up the Wood River and dropped anchor in the eternal twilight of the Alaskan summer. While Fred barbecued our celebratory steaks, I cleaned the twelve gauge and ever-so-gently sanded a years worth of rust off shotgun shells in preparation for a round of evening trap shooting. I tucked into my miniature bunk with a smile on my face and the childish enthusiasm of boy setting off on a grand adventure into the unknown.<br />
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The boat listing starboard at twenty degrees against the river bed and Elijah & Fred jumping out of the rack brought and abrupt end to my slumber and reminded all of us that checking the tide table before anchoring is a detail one should not overlook. The flood tide lifted our vessel into buoyancy and soon found us riding the ebb at a steady seven knots across six foot seas eastward out of the Nushagak into Kvichak Bay, arriving at the enormous mouth of the Naknek River eight rough hours later. Radio rhetoric and social rafting of thirty-two foot boats tied three abreast ensued as my Captain Elijah reconnected with his radio group compadres, many of whom he had not seen for a year. Being the lowly deck hand on the boat, I set the anchor, tied off mooring lines, washed windows, mended nets in the rain and general kept my mouth shut as the viscous clouds of thick bullshit enveloped the cool evening air buzzing with the frenzy of thirsty mosquitoes. <br />
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<i>I hear the the biologists are predicting a hell of run up the Woods this year, you ever fished it?</i><br />
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<i>Ah yeah, twelve years ago I had three twelve thousand pound days up there; tight fishin' though. Shallow sandbars and narrow as hell, gotta keep an eye on things and be on your game. </i><br />
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<i>Hmm, think will stick around in the Kvichak for the free week and see what we can scratch up. You hear what he escapement numbers are at?</i><br />
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<i>Rumor is the price of fish might be up to two dollars a pound this year; hell I remember when it was thirty-five cents and we thought we were flush!</i><br />
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Morning dawned snotty with 35 mph west winds and a flooding tide, evidently good conditions to push fish up the river and into ours nets. I spotted a pod of Beluga Whales fishing the river out my starboard window as I sipped my morning coffee and momentarly forgot that I was here to work. With zeal we set forth and cast our nets into the surly waters of Kvichak Bay with great anticipation. A tremendous catch however, was not to be had and we tendered less than one hundred pounds of fish for the days' effort. Reports of no fish across the district eased the disappointment in our humble catch and we anchored late and consoled ourselves with a cold Coors Light. A restless sleep was again interrupted by Elijah springing to action at the sound of our anchor scraping the gravel bed as the powerful tide yarded us downstream. Another boat in the same predicament slid harmlessly into our bow as Fred pulled the anchor and we motored up stream to a muddy moorage in a protected eddy. <br />
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<i>Welcome to fishing in Bristol Bay,</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
Elijah said sarcastically as I settled back in for a couple more hours of fitful sleep.<br />
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Rumors of fisherman scrapping out a thousand pounds of catch congregated the entire fleet on the western edge of the boundary the following evening. As we approached from the northeast, hundreds of boats anchored neatly in rows under fines skies on the horizon dramatically juxtaposed the natural beauty and emptiness of the Alaskan wilderness around us. The six am opener found hundreds of boats lined up like race cars, spewing clouds of dark diesel smoke into the air as they circled and weaved each other, jockeying for prime position. At the stroke of six nets dropped into the water and the rumored shit show of fishing "The Line" became a new reality of my experience here.<br />
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Elijah signaled for us to set and we cast our neatly stacked nets off the stern. We attentively fed, making sure the nets didn't tangle or snag on the inside of the boat.<br />
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<i>BOOM!!!</i><br />
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The impact nearly knocked both Fred and I off our feet before the report of metal meeting metal registered in my brain. As I recovered from the impact I looked up to see a scruff faced Captain with the plug of a smoldering cigar scowling down from his flybridge as our boats recoiled from the collision. His crew, just a few feet away on their boat stood wide eyed looking as shocked and bewildered as I. No harsh words exchanged, no lewd gestures; just a an indifferent scowl and and move on. Another day fishing the line. <br />
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<i>Welcome to fishing in Bristol Bay.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
Elijah's words echoed in my head.<br />
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Not interested in dying for a few hundred pounds of fish, we pulled off the line and cast a couple sets for a few more Sockeye; we might not be getting rich, but we're eating darn good every night. While Fred and I filleted our catch, Elijah drove us back to the tender boat to pick up some nets and we caught the tide back towards our home in Dillingham. As the sun sank low in the western sky, illuminating the mountains north a burning pink, I set my compass bearing and motored into the waning light. Seals bobbing in the rolling waters kept me company as Elijah and Fred turned in for the night and a visit from an Orca and her young calfs afforded the most magical highlight of this fishing adventure yet.<br />
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Morning found us docked up in the Dillingham harbor and I hopped back on land for the first time in five days. I delicately straightened our bent anchor guide with a sledge hammer and Fred went to work on our failing drum motor; the work is never done on an old boat. The hurry up and wait game of fishing salmon is about to set in as we don't anticipate another opening for at least two more days. The masses of Sockeye Salmon have yet to return in earnest to the rivers of North Bristol Bay. Fishermen with boat loans much bigger than my home mortgage grow impatient as the Fish & Game biologists tally the escapement of fish necessary to sustain the fishery before opening the season to commercial harvesting. Tension runs high and it is a good time to stay far away from the the bars. <br />
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A week in the water and less-than two hundred pounds of fish to show for it is nothing to write home about, but I am thankful for the dress rehearsal of setting, dragging and picking up nets before they are filled with thousands of pounds of flopping fish. I am also thankful for the opportunity to wrap my head around the real and ever present dangers of working on a boat where the opportunities abound to fuck up and hurt yourself. <br />
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While it is nice to be back in town, take a hot shower and drink a cold beer or two, life on the water is growing on me quickly and I am anxious to get back out there, put my new learning into action and hopefully make a couple bucks catching a few fish.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">It is good to be loved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Net mending Zen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Chinook (Kings) are running and we bought a few from a friend for freezing and roe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Chinook caviar, good clean living. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Captain speaks!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">One am dike hike.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Dillingham Bloody Mary.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fixed</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Shotgun shells don't mix especially well with salt water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Pull!!!</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dinner!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Livin' the Dream.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Towing the net. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Bad photo of an Orca, but it is still an Orca!</span></div>
<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-67391693571311978742014-06-07T11:42:00.003-07:002014-08-06T19:55:37.929-07:00Five days in the yard.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlg6xupS3KU6xazXoWNDkmqo4xPNb-nt6E4yHbj0IMWQACgoTIqugh3Zly_JwhSx3bwYorJkFL3WHYbNE7bN85QE0D8_tLmGTovzRS3zCsjM7fPZQmDnUbUhEgDKiVyAe7GEYqFM4T8Xgm/s1600/IMG_8082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlg6xupS3KU6xazXoWNDkmqo4xPNb-nt6E4yHbj0IMWQACgoTIqugh3Zly_JwhSx3bwYorJkFL3WHYbNE7bN85QE0D8_tLmGTovzRS3zCsjM7fPZQmDnUbUhEgDKiVyAe7GEYqFM4T8Xgm/s1600/IMG_8082.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Midnight, Dillingham, Alaska.</span></div>
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<i>We fear things in proportion to our ignorance of them.</i></div>
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<i>~ Christian Nestle Bovee</i></div>
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I am Daniel Son, Fred is Mr. Miyagi.</div>
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Paint the decks, scrub the hulls, strip the lines, clean the engine compartment, mend nets, stencil the boat, wash the dishes, install the water pump, clean the filters, the list goes on and on. </div>
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My apprenticeship as a deckhand aboard a Bristol Bay gill netting boat has begun in earnest and I am in full leaning mode. For a guy who knows next to nothing about boats, nor the ocean, tearing the <i>F/V Potential</i> apart and putting it back together over and over again helps me bond with this vessel that I am going to be calling home for the next eight weeks. The intimate familiarity I am gaining with the craft helps calm my healthy fears of fishing the ocean as I slowly discharge of my long list of unknowns. Call me superstitious, but I believe that if throw my heart and soul at this vessel in preparation, the labor of love will keep me and the crew safe when we are out in the shit trying to catch a few fish. </div>
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Kloshe konaway</div>
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Kloshe nanitch</div>
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Matt </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImw8YilGH2KlIdrqZdYItwGwQPapshFrsGNKEo6QYd6TNwjrGmBctUiq473gaMcOnxuBSL_H0udAUmguYF4FvNmmJE5VoGdwKdWJUf3E25Gze_CFXEjoPTpar2-LsVHNAxVYeKLonKkRM/s1600/IMG_7948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImw8YilGH2KlIdrqZdYItwGwQPapshFrsGNKEo6QYd6TNwjrGmBctUiq473gaMcOnxuBSL_H0udAUmguYF4FvNmmJE5VoGdwKdWJUf3E25Gze_CFXEjoPTpar2-LsVHNAxVYeKLonKkRM/s1600/IMG_7948.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">F/V Potential AKA The Pha Q </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhilLbCrejjFEpwHAINOB-F3zliwNQRVtyRRPbBcghj5DjfRxDKF2eopetzs0896m1P_JDLXaeRWJ_6Wj1we2odjTd7WmXauDu2s-etGu-HpnzsqUoDs5eApa50WCo9T6yB-kwWnPjXG28V/s1600/IMG_7965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhilLbCrejjFEpwHAINOB-F3zliwNQRVtyRRPbBcghj5DjfRxDKF2eopetzs0896m1P_JDLXaeRWJ_6Wj1we2odjTd7WmXauDu2s-etGu-HpnzsqUoDs5eApa50WCo9T6yB-kwWnPjXG28V/s1600/IMG_7965.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Birdshot is just for fun. Things really don't get serious in Dillingham until you shoot your buddy's truck with buckshot. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXeBX3Wt4H3em7uF-a4Z-QhiB9RZAOQ9pvOxY2ggFQDE14Adpn0cAllBWaaR69qUvz_bdGQeHhxQC4-fpGdTos6SYXqwjTUqtIGAxR8R1gy0cUDp1XWloxI4URbsYCXWCef2ZQ5NE_R-c/s1600/IMG_7966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXeBX3Wt4H3em7uF-a4Z-QhiB9RZAOQ9pvOxY2ggFQDE14Adpn0cAllBWaaR69qUvz_bdGQeHhxQC4-fpGdTos6SYXqwjTUqtIGAxR8R1gy0cUDp1XWloxI4URbsYCXWCef2ZQ5NE_R-c/s1600/IMG_7966.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Price check on isle three please. Dillingham is a long way from anywhere and it cost a few bucks to get things here.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">My summer ride. I can't wait for a day off to explore as far as the gravel will take me.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEX8YnnlyxZTP7w_d4ooLBIMxBknKe_fiGbK6R-razk42vAhwASgOJfbGum3jEIpH7Ihjntior1jP-XdBbwRMcSbGEsc46rHAmMGmuPhF77dTmMP-FTZm3Jrgg1KDHgNfkbJyJG5R4e0_p/s1600/IMG_7974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEX8YnnlyxZTP7w_d4ooLBIMxBknKe_fiGbK6R-razk42vAhwASgOJfbGum3jEIpH7Ihjntior1jP-XdBbwRMcSbGEsc46rHAmMGmuPhF77dTmMP-FTZm3Jrgg1KDHgNfkbJyJG5R4e0_p/s1600/IMG_7974.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Miyagi</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUx1G2LgVVLpIYM6rz7f2iXQW3kX3N6NCbKoznJgYU2BEvMJPc023VyDBOAJ5refw2XYAojEOmtrXC6b_XGlb9Hzo2Gbu4L7PysaZSBqiBpscSWn99xXTRg2nEhx6YyUhX-ve6eoCCHa9B/s1600/IMG_8008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUx1G2LgVVLpIYM6rz7f2iXQW3kX3N6NCbKoznJgYU2BEvMJPc023VyDBOAJ5refw2XYAojEOmtrXC6b_XGlb9Hzo2Gbu4L7PysaZSBqiBpscSWn99xXTRg2nEhx6YyUhX-ve6eoCCHa9B/s1600/IMG_8008.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Alaskan winters are hard on old boats, but the <i>F/V</i> <i>Potential </i>fired up on the first pull and is running strong.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Mihn's boat, the <i>Quickset II</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Good clean liven'</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj40hAag1FSh6fRtE8s0NO0VPD2qwF8n_HxtX6IVXZ2GI5pIfDOcIJ7rgo-4YHurDlEF6Ppem6VkmBj_9PFbRh8hns9E0K0Il9R5mWCCzEFYVd2vh50nCtR3oFAFP-EVwFUgnRKx93zmFff/s1600/IMG_8028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj40hAag1FSh6fRtE8s0NO0VPD2qwF8n_HxtX6IVXZ2GI5pIfDOcIJ7rgo-4YHurDlEF6Ppem6VkmBj_9PFbRh8hns9E0K0Il9R5mWCCzEFYVd2vh50nCtR3oFAFP-EVwFUgnRKx93zmFff/s1600/IMG_8028.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Practical jokes are already amping up and the season hasn't even started yet.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMcLUmuBTzHJg10tsfbSPet-0QGfPNLs9cR23DTpEGc9T-eJl3KKvtAORvlA1iAju9Mv-RCVOUN57GnaM-thzhttpsOxfJnAxZZi9MejlYrrL48bCyDeyn3U0tIq31W1tzcSz5BqBdsgf/s1600/IMG_8030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyMcLUmuBTzHJg10tsfbSPet-0QGfPNLs9cR23DTpEGc9T-eJl3KKvtAORvlA1iAju9Mv-RCVOUN57GnaM-thzhttpsOxfJnAxZZi9MejlYrrL48bCyDeyn3U0tIq31W1tzcSz5BqBdsgf/s1600/IMG_8030.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dave Bowen would be proud. Tight freehand stencil by the Redhead. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-x7UObkewLz743fQBb1X6USlgKjknY87JPMbASS-1a9EyQq9m8bEypDCLrbVwKAEVINfod2ScNFqRv0fpfcI6xzzftPB9U2p0UPDRsW86c1XbzNve8fn9NtGsH7mC5X0G9C0EDF2xmYu/s1600/IMG_8037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-x7UObkewLz743fQBb1X6USlgKjknY87JPMbASS-1a9EyQq9m8bEypDCLrbVwKAEVINfod2ScNFqRv0fpfcI6xzzftPB9U2p0UPDRsW86c1XbzNve8fn9NtGsH7mC5X0G9C0EDF2xmYu/s1600/IMG_8037.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fifteen six and a pair for eight.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKWHsLNbHvIAJ_CmT8p54d2UdgrTL0pvd4Ktzhq4MIYcFPflg4r1nr6lE1utMWkK0IWNQvBiGQunDJa07XF4W8-H8rVmqoqJyPieDC_imJ3tyViaCPL-0nx53h0uTHpTHhC5JdOSJwa6Z/s1600/IMG_8038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKWHsLNbHvIAJ_CmT8p54d2UdgrTL0pvd4Ktzhq4MIYcFPflg4r1nr6lE1utMWkK0IWNQvBiGQunDJa07XF4W8-H8rVmqoqJyPieDC_imJ3tyViaCPL-0nx53h0uTHpTHhC5JdOSJwa6Z/s1600/IMG_8038.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mechanical #1: Thirty-six year old shaft on our main drum is a little worn down.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt6_kRTVCaWmhXbdAFnIfTpEzMupw_LKR6HgDX2UNLDKVwQ7OJVE3KASf55gEurHxvjCHyKW8l5W55DkUl_1Y5RCyLyw3X1mHfsU_yhhXOzz-6rAn-HgX-h5RBR-TUIHylXaCUDr3NOlRS/s1600/IMG_8040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt6_kRTVCaWmhXbdAFnIfTpEzMupw_LKR6HgDX2UNLDKVwQ7OJVE3KASf55gEurHxvjCHyKW8l5W55DkUl_1Y5RCyLyw3X1mHfsU_yhhXOzz-6rAn-HgX-h5RBR-TUIHylXaCUDr3NOlRS/s1600/IMG_8040.JPG" height="223" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Icicle Foods in Dillingham will be weighing our catch and writing us checks this summer. You can also send me cookies and whisky at: F/V Potential PO Box 1810 Dillingham, AK 99576</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWNULQv9V7CaAdXdR-9B4UisOh8YBIJbzRlmsAKODQfmaKuniKX2TwPytF_4MaXgY6qggjqlkx_i2agYhu8znE0-zWxkjDLmn2m1EUsR35PvtLpnVz5tb_1i-vQYHVJFLtMcYm1ySNU-JO/s1600/IMG_8041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWNULQv9V7CaAdXdR-9B4UisOh8YBIJbzRlmsAKODQfmaKuniKX2TwPytF_4MaXgY6qggjqlkx_i2agYhu8znE0-zWxkjDLmn2m1EUsR35PvtLpnVz5tb_1i-vQYHVJFLtMcYm1ySNU-JO/s1600/IMG_8041.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">My First Mate Fred owns <a href="http://www.brickhousesf.com/">The Brickhouse Cafe and Saloon</a> in SF and has got some mad skills. It is rumored that we are the best fed crew in Dillingham. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Every boat name has a story, and some are a little more interesting than others. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBj_6sQvPSzI8wvKqGZ72_cLO6JJuXmOoI9ORbTvntSmAafgy3IFJxzUziEKs0OKIaSYSpAODF4KX1rH-ACUH4lbxHL_1BebWWpxDpq9DKIvr6GwVuZo_zOeQVhub9gxFYruA4cifTiJ5/s1600/IMG_8056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBj_6sQvPSzI8wvKqGZ72_cLO6JJuXmOoI9ORbTvntSmAafgy3IFJxzUziEKs0OKIaSYSpAODF4KX1rH-ACUH4lbxHL_1BebWWpxDpq9DKIvr6GwVuZo_zOeQVhub9gxFYruA4cifTiJ5/s1600/IMG_8056.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">This has to come off and I am not quite sure how to go about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Art project day one.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">It was just a small bear, say 200-300 pounds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jenny and Mom; don't worry, they are feeding me well!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">If Carmen could talk, I reckon she would have story to tell.</span></div>
<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-34763931321867238022014-06-01T15:14:00.002-07:002014-08-06T19:55:12.685-07:00North<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">135 pounds of meat and rain gear; Alaska here I come.</span></div>
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I feel like Tyler Durden…..Phenom Penh, Saigon, Tokyo, San Francisco, Seattle in the past 7 days. Blurry eyed, cotton mouthed. I wake up to the sound of screaming rubber as the plane skids down the runway in Anchorage.<br />
<br />
Snow topped mountains and a seven dollar two-day-old airport sandwich (TSA ganked my peanut butter and honey in the name of a safer world; WTF?). I hop a plane to Dillingham in a couple of hours where I will swap my flip-flops for rubber boots and take to the waters of Bristol Bay to pop my drift netting cherry aboard the <i>F/V</i> <i>Potential. </i><br />
<br />
My neighbor and my captain, <a href="http://www.prophet-productions.com/">Elijah Lawson</a> has spent the last 32 years fishing in Alaska. In addition to being a hell of a fisherman, he is also quite a talented film maker. In 2013 Elijah received a grant from the <a href="http://www.bbrsda.com/">Bristol Bay Regional Seafood Development Association</a> to create three films which expound the unique culture surrounding the Bristol Bay fishery. I highly encourage you to hit the link and spend a few minutes learning about where your beautiful clean Sockeye Salmon comes from, and why it is so important to to protect this amazing and bountiful natural resource.<br />
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<a href="http://tailsfrombristolbay.com/the-films/">http://tailsfrombristolbay.com/the-films/</a><br />
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Password: bristolbay1<br />
<br />
I am honored to part of the crew excited to be on another adventure!<br />
<br />
Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
<br />
Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> From planting seeds of exploration and adventure in my young brain, to storing our worldly possessions in their home, to depositing rent checks and dragging us back and forth to the airport, Jen and I couldn't have pulled this amazing year off without the help of my wonderful parents. More than anything, I am thankful to have been blessed with such solid custodians in life, my world would not be what it is without them both. Thank you Mom and Dad!</span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-18876714340552152002014-05-31T23:04:00.000-07:002014-08-06T19:54:40.904-07:00 My Little Luscious Light<i>Happy is the man who finds a true friend, and far happier is he who finds that true friend is his wife.</i><br />
<i>~Franz Schubert</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
Few men have the good fortune to find a partner as beautiful, strong, charming and brilliant as the one I call my wife.<br />
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It is hard for me to believe that eleven months ago, Jenny and I saddled our bikes and rolled away from Snohomish with the sole intention of running for a year and getting to know each other a little bit better. My bride, who is made of gold made only two requests of me,<br />
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<i>Don't kill me, and just make sure we have enough to eat.</i><br />
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I honored my end of the bargain, and as I sit here at my parents kitchen table sifting through a year's worth of photos, I feel like I just may be the luckiest man alive.<br />
<br />
Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
<br />
Matt<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-16961622171911270652014-05-18T06:53:00.002-07:002014-08-06T19:54:16.737-07:00The Heart of Darkness<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Warning: Sensitive content and graphic pictures. If you let your kids read this, be prepared for a difficult conversation about the cruel injustices of the world.<br />
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The hot air, heavy with exhaust fumes and the occasional aroma of inept sewers violates my senses as Jenny and I walk down the narrow, crowded streets of Phenom Penh. This neighborhood appears like many others in the Capital City of Cambodia; motorbikes jockey for position with the steady blare of horns, women sit lazily under makeshift tarp shelters, swatting flies and selling noodles, small portions of BBQ meat, and every sundry of textiles imaginable. Mangy dogs, nipples dragging on the ground, roam the dusty streets, searching for a handout or a scrap of chicken bone tossed aside. The mood is cheerful and relaxed, underemployed tuk tuk drivers smoke, smile easy and laughingly joke each other under the shade of tall mango trees. The hint of violence seems thousands of miles away and I struggle to wrap my head around the atrocities that have occurred in this country during my lifetime. Forboding coils of rusting razor wire atop walls of crumbling concrete announce our arrival at Chao Ponhea Yat High School, more notoriously known as Security Prison 21 of the Khmer Rouge. <br />
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In April 1975, Communist Khmer Rouge soldiers marched through the streets of Phenom Penh, marking their victory against the American backed Republican Government of Lon Nol. Although this pronounced an end to a savage five years of bloody civil war, it also marked the beginning of one of the most barbarous periods of inhuman and merciless ethnic cleansing the world has ever known.<br />
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Pol Pot, the ruthless leader of the Khmer Rouge envisioned a new Kampuchea, a pure agrarian society free of the poisonous influence of capitalism and westerner corruption. To accomplish his goal, the Khmer completely evacuated the capital, forcing men and women, young and infirm to walk for days to forced labor camps spread throughout the countryside. At first, former government employees and soldiers were systematically executed for simply ending up on the wrong side of the victory line. As the deranged paranoia of the Khmer Rouge grew, academics, doctors, teachers, students, monks, and factory workers; anyone seen as a threat to the Khmer were arrested and taken to prison camps such as the notorious S-21. Prisoners at Tuol Sleng were methodically tortured until they confessed to being agents of the CIA, KGB or spies for Vietnam and wrote forced confessions detailing their crimes against the Khmer. Despite their innocence, the accused admitted to all charges, often indicting family members, neighbors, co-workers and friends who were in-turn arrested and routinely executed. The Khmer lived by the moto, <i>To kill the grass, you must remove even the roots. </i>Entire families were erased to eliminate the prospect that one member might someday seek revenge.<br />
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As I walk the halls of this former school with classrooms converted into tiny cells, barred windows and blood stained floors, the muted echoes of the screaming horrors that occurred in this place pierce the stoic silence of visitors. I look out on the well kept courtyard at the pull-up bars and climbing apparatus that the Khmer converted into gallows and think of the young people who once honed their young bodies here under the hot Cambodian sun. The tragic irony that a school, an institution of hope and ambition was turned into a place of repressive suffering sickens my soul to its core and makes me wonder how this atrocity occurred here not so long ago.<br />
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For the first years of S-21's existence, the cadres buried their victim's bodies near the prison, but by the end of 1976 the genocide had reached hysteric levels and they were simply running out of room to dispose of the dead. Just one of over one hundred and fifty mass extermination centers that litter the countryside of Cambodia, Choeng Ek tells the story of a revolution turned to paranoia. After securing the forced confessions of the innocent at S-21, prisoners were loaded on trucks and driven 15 km out of the city to a quite countryside site of an old Chinese graveyard. Blindfolded, they were forced to kneel at the edge of huge pits where the were hacked, bludgeoned, or stabbed to death by guards; bullets being expensive and in short supply. The bodies were dumped into mass unmarked graves and buried without ceremony. An estimated 20,000 people walked through the doors of Tuol Sleng Prison; twelve left with their lives when the Vietnamese liberated Cambodia from the Khmer in 1979. During the reign of the Khmer Rouge, over 2,000,000 Cambodians were executed, a full quarter of this country's population. An entire generation of people were lost to this senseless destruction. <br />
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As I stand before the memorial to the slain, a towering Buddhist Pagoda, filled with the remains of those exhumed from the graves of Choeng Ek, I can't help but wonder what sinister evil lurks at the edge of humanity that allows men to dehumanize each other to the point that they could systematically beat, rape and exterminate their countrymen in the name of political ideology. Visiting places like these shakes my faith in humanity to the core and leaves me wondering where our world is headed. I like to think that mankind is learning, moving forward in peace, but recent genocidal violence in Armenia, Rwanda, Sudan, Afghanistan and presently in Syria and Burma points to the contrary.<br />
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It troubles me when I don't know answers, when I can't rationalize things that I see in a way that makes sense, when I feel like there is little justice in the world. The truth is that some actions of men are beyond explanation, and seeking understanding of the indiscernible will leave one more confabulated than when he began. Edmund Burke once said, <i>All it takes for evil to flourish is for good men to do nothing, </i>and his words help me untangle the mess of emotions inside my head. Lines of right and wrong however, are sometimes gray and I can't say what I might have said or done had the Khmer pulled my fingernails out with pliers, poured boiling water on my face, or skinned me alive. I like to think that I would stand tall, suffer well and protect the ones that I love, but I don't know that for sure. I hope to never find out.<br />
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I find solace that in this year of travel, I have found that there are more people in this world who stand for peace, justice and kindness than there are that would see the world a dark place of fear, pain and suffering. I will stand with those people in my days here, work to make those ideals a reality and pray that I will always find myself on the right side of the line, and more importantly, able to look myself in the mirror at the end of each day.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A peaceful and clean courtyard betrays the horrors that once occurred at Cho Ponhea High School, more infamously know as Security Prison-21.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Vietnamese discovered the horror of S-21 by following the stench of decomposing bodies. Photographs of what they discovered haunt the walls of the prison today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Students used this apparatus to ascend ropes, honing their young bodies. The Khmer turned it into and instument of torture. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Khmer Rouge was meticulous as it was ruthless. Every man, woman and child who entered the gates of S-21 were measured, weighed and photographed. Thousands of ghostly nameless faces canvas the halls of the former prison.</span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-23831700175292992762014-05-11T03:30:00.000-07:002014-08-06T19:53:52.312-07:00Forbidden City<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Jenny and I stand outside the imposing brick walls of the Imperial city Kinh thanh Hue, the former capital of Vietnam and the home of the Nguyen Dynasty, the last ruling </span>Emperor<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Family of the country. We have just been scolded in Vietnamese for </span>attempting<span style="font-family: inherit;"> to enter through the exit gate and are having a little difficulty understanding the guard spitting directions of where we're to go. As hard as I try to blend in, redheaded, soaked in sweat, holding a map in one hand and the Lonely Planet in the other, I scream <i>Western Tourist!!! </i>like a beacon on a dark night. Standing still for more than ten seconds invites the zealous haggle of cyclo drivers. </span><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 22px;">A stout Vietnamese man, with a broad smile and a cigarette hanging out the side of his mouth approaches. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 22px;"><i>Hello, where you from? Cyclo one hour, I show you all of the city. You buy from me. Where you go? I take you!</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"><i><br /></i></span><span style="line-height: 22px;">I respond that we are American and politely decline the offer, telling the driver that we are exploring by foot and prefer to walk, but with this interaction his bid only becomes more zealous.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="line-height: 22px;"><br /></span></i></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"><i>Very cheap, five dollars one hour. You hire one hour I show all city, take you back to hotel. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="line-height: 22px;"><br /></span></i>
<i style="line-height: 22px;">No thank you mate, </i><span style="line-height: 22px;">I again respond with calm; I feel Jenny's irritation meter maxing out as she tries to orient us by unfamiliar landmarks and strange street signs to the entrance of the ancient high walled city. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"><br /></span></span><i><span style="line-height: 22px;">Why you no help me? I very poor. I have many children very hungry. </span></i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i style="line-height: 22px;">You hire me, very good tour. You rich American, I poor Vietnamese, you help me. Five dollars, one hour, I show you whole city, we go now! </i><span style="line-height: 22px;">He smiles, as if expecting his doggedness will wear on my endurance and I will eventually give in; I suspect that his strategy has been effective in the past.</span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 22px;">I begin to calmly, yet sternly decline his offer again, but after weeks in Vietnam and the nearly constant stream of people trying to hawk you things that you neither need or want, the hot sun beating down on our heads, and just trying to concentrate for minute, Jenny has had it and interrupts.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"><br /></span>
<span style="line-height: 22px;"><i>Look, it isn't about you! We just want to walk and we have said no more than once. Please leave us alone!</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"><i><br /></i></span><span style="line-height: 22px;">The intensity is one I recognize from the few times Jenny has been really pissed at me, and our would-be tour guide has obviously heard the tone in the past. He snarls something unpleasant quietly in Vietnamese, turns and leaves. Jenny and I quickly depart and find the entrance gate to the palace, pay our 50,000 dong ($2.50) and enter the ancient city among hoards of Western, Chinese, and wealthy Vietnamese Tourists, free from the haggle of street vendors.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"><br /></span><span style="line-height: 22px;">The Imperial City was largely destroyed in the Tet Offensive of 1968 and as we walk through what remains of the the intricately designed structures built with elaborate lacquered beams, sweeping roof lines, golden thrones, and ornate ceramic mosaic walls, I can't stop thinking about our interaction with the cyclo driver and the how the function of these massive brick walls hasn't changed much in last two hundred years. Just </span><span style="line-height: 22px;"> as </span><span style="line-height: 22px;">they once separated the elite ruling class of Vietnam from the lowly commoners outside, they now allow Jenny and me</span><span style="line-height: 22px;">, elite American tourists, to be away from the hassle and harsh realities of life in Vietnam, even if just for a moment.</span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 22px;">Vietnam is a quickly changing place, but make no mistake, it is still a country emerging from the third world. Despite the fact the even the poorest people have cell phones, flash cars like BMW's and Mercedes are not an uncommon sight, and Wifi is better than the U.S., the economic portrait for most Vietnamese people isn't very rosy. With a per capita GDP of less than $2,000 USD, I likely carry more money in my pocket than most people earn in a month. When a cyclo driver pleads </span><i style="line-height: 22px;">I am poor, my children our hungry, why don't you help me, </i><span style="line-height: 22px;">it may be a well-delivered emotional plea to help separate from me from some of my money, but it is also the truth. If I were in his shoes I would likely be saying and doing the same thing.</span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 22px;">I also carry a burden of knowing that my county dropped over 7 million tons of bombs on this land during the Vietnam conflict, and that the people who suffered the most never picked up a gun and were far to poor to tell the difference between a capitalist and communist government. When bombs quit falling, thirty years of economic isolation stepped in to finish the job. Things are improving in Vietnam, but with a population of 90 million, and an economy largely dependent upon tourist dollars, there just isn't enough to go around.</span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 22px;">Traveling the world is meant to challenge you, make you feel uncomfortable, and question your beliefs and ideals. Long have I preached the virtues of simplistic living, shrinking your footprint and rejecting the materialism that is harmful to both our souls and the planet we live on. Being in Vietnam has made me realize though that sometime things are not all that black and white. Values get compromised, hopefully for right reasons. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 22px;">In a few I'm weeks coming home with a backpack of shit that I really don't need; trinkets, t-shirts and some good handm</span><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;">ade clothes. Before I leave this country that I have grown very fond of, I am also going to hire a cyclo driver and let him pedal me around a city that I would rather walk, hell I might just pay him to let me drive, but he'll make some money </span></span><span style="line-height: 22px;">on the</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 22px;"> deal. At the end of the day, I guess I decided that best way my visit to Vietnam could have a net positive impact on the people who need it the most is to spend a few more of my greenbacks than I might have originally intended. I haven't abandoned my belief that consuming less is the only path for a peaceful and sustainable future, I just realize that sometimes it's more important to make someones life better today than stand on my soapbox of minimalist austerity and hold tight to my money, especially when a guy who desperately tries to sell bicycle rides all day for a living puts his kids to bed at night with an empty stomach. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 22px;">Kloshe konaway</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 22px;">Kloshe nanitch</span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 22px;">Matt</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 22px;">The Imperial City of Hue, built by the last </span></span></span><span style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 22px;">Emperor Family of Vietnam was almost completely destroyed during the Test Offensive of 1968. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, the Vietnamese Government is slowly restoring the city to it's former glory.</span></span></div>
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The former combat base of Khe Sanh is now little more than a barren strip of land with a few bunkers and and captured US military hardware. There is however, and interesting museum that explains the significance of the battle of Khe Sanh in the Vietnam War. Just a few kilometers south of the the Demilitarized Zone and near the the Laos boarder, Khe Sanh was literally smack in the middle of the Ho Chi Mihn Trail, a network of roads and paths that carried arms and supplies into Southern Vietnam, much by bicycle. Between January and July of 1968 Khe Sanh was under nearly constant ground, artillery, mortar and rocket attacks. The US responded by dropping over 100,000 tons of bombs on the area surrounding Khe Sanh, which still scars the landscape today. Thousands of American and Vietnamese lives were lost on this chunk of ground that America abandoned shortly after successfully defending the five month siege. </div>
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The Vihn Moc Tunnels, located just north of the Ben Hai River in the DMZ were built to shelter villagers and solders from some of the heaviest bombing sorties of the Vietnam War. The 2000 meters of tunnels were dug by hand up to 30 meters under the ground and contained wells, living quarters, kitchens and hospitals. They are testament to the strength and resilience of the Vietnamese People.</div>
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The City of Hoi An is one of the oldest ports in SE Asia and has a long and rich history of trade and textile manufacturing. Jenny and I spent a bit of time and money with the nice girls at Shop 41 in the market and got some pretty flash cloths to bring home for the effort.</div>
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Orange Matt.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The City of Nha Trang was a bit of a disappointment with it's high rise hotels and Western & Russian Restaurants. The Temples and Pagodas were some the best we have seen though.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Not Portlandia.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Po Nagar Temple dates back to the year 781 and was originally constructed as a Hindu worship. Today Vietnamese and Chinese Buddhists come here to pray and make offerings.</span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-10101234030762186522014-05-04T08:51:00.003-07:002014-08-06T19:53:29.238-07:00Ninh Bihn!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Saturday, May 2nd. Saigon Hotel. Ninh Bihn, Vietnam.</b><br />
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Jen and I emerge from the elevator and stand before an overwhelming colossal spread of Vietnamese food on the fifth floor of the Saigon Hotel in the city of Ninh Bihn, Northern Vietnam. A well dressed Vietnamese woman, the owner of the hotel, proudly shows us to the balcony, where beneath us unfolds a spectacular view. The Red River snakes through the bustling city alive with the horns of thousands of small motor bikes zipping like bees through its friendly streets. Beyond the hotels and apartment buildings to the east, huge limestone towers pierce through a sea of green rice paddies skyward into the hazy pink azure of a setting sun. I can't help but imagine them as the fangs of an ancient dragon sleeping shallowly for thousands of years casting his sweltering, humid breath toward to heavens as a reminder that he may someday wake from his slumber and wreak havoc among the people of this land. I feel a slight tug on my shoulder and our matriarch host motions us to the table. We are soon joined by a cadre of her close friends and family and the feasting begins. I look over at Jen, who is blissfully lost in culinary delight. I smile and think to myself,<br />
<i>How the hell did we end up here?</i><br />
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<b>Wednesday April 30th. Somewhere between Sapa and Hanoi.</b><br />
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How I went from contentedly reading my book and preparing for a good night sleep to sitting shirtless, pounding beers with a Vietnamese banker in the lower birth of our sleeper car en route to Hanoi from the mountains of Sapa is still not entirely clear even to me. More important at this moment however, is that I had made a new best friend, and after getting over the disappointment of learning that we were from Washington State, and not sharing BBQ's with the Obama family, Thuy and I embraced like newlyweds, linked arms and tipped back another can of cold Han'oi Bia'.<br />
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Empties were tossed to the floor and my new crony pointed first at me, then at Jen, next his trusty sober side-kick Thine and lastly himself, made the gesture of driving a car and authoritatively exclaimed <i>Ninh Bihn! </i>Although Thuy and Thine's English was nearly as poor as our Vietnamese, I clearly understood that upon arrival at our destination in Hanoi, Thuy wished the four of us to travel in his car one hundred kilometers south to his city of Ninh Bihn. What would happen when we arrived was far beyond the scope or our limited ability to draw pictures and hand gesture, but I assumed it would involve more beer.<br />
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Early in our year-long adventure Jenny and I made the decision to never turn down and invitation for hospitality from any reasonably sane-looking local, as these engagements have borne some of the richest experiences of our journey. Sadly, in this case we had booked a trip north to Halong Bay the following day and would be unable to accept my new drinking buddy's enthusiastic invitation. Thuy's disappointment was spread across his visage with a scowl, but soon another beer was cracked open and our east-meets-west party kicked back into full swing. Over the next hour an elaborate game of international charades unfolded as more empty beer cans littered the stuffy and increasing loud sleeping cabin of the train. Several times, Thuy repeated his earlier gestures of driving us all to Ninh Bihn, going as so far to produce a drivers license as if to legitimize his offer. In the end, we agreed that upon our return to Hanoi from our tour in the north, we would travel by train to Ninh Bihn, where Thuy and I would be happily reunited and recommence our one-for-one beer drinking escapade. Email and phone numbers were exchanged before Jen sensibly crawled up to the top bunk and announced she was going to sleep. Out of beer, Thuy simply laid back on the bed and drifted off to a deep contented sleep. Although morning dawned with sobriety, a small headache, and a little less enthusiasm, Thuy again pointed at at his phone number, Jen and me, and repeated<i> Nihn Binh!</i> By all accounts, we took it as an invitation.<br />
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Back in Hanoi, Jenny and I exchanged our train tickets to Hue for a shorter ride to Nihn Binh, and with the help of Google Translate, shot off an email to my Vietnamese compadre informing him we would arrive at the train station in Nihn Binh shortly after nine pm in a few days time. Strangely, no response came that day, nor the next. Armed with a phone number, I asked our hotel concierge to ring our dear friend Thuy to confirm our visit. Jen and I stood by as our polite host phoned and a short cordial conversation ensued. Our concierge hung up the phone and through broken English and a big smile, informed us that Thuy's invitation was extended only as a means to persuade us to visit his beloved city, not to stay with his family. Awkward moment... hmmm?<br />
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While things may have gotten a bit lost in translation, I think it more likely Thuy got home and relayed the story of his drunken escapade with a shirtless and bearded American to his wife; he may have even shown her the selfies he so enthusiastically snapped as we pounded beer arm-in-arm. I can only imagine what her reaction might have been when he informed her he had invited us to come stay in Nihn Binh, but my guess is that the whole plan got the kibosh in a rather short order. Like Mark Twain said, <i>Doing sober what we said we would drunk just might make us quit drinking. </i>In any case Jen and I were proud owners of a pair of train tickets and were on our way to Nihn Binh.<br />
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<b>Saturday May 2nd. Nihn Binh, Vietnam</b><br />
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<i>Good bike, good bike, </i>the hotel owner repeated through smiling teeth stained yellow from a lifetime of chain smoking cheap cigarettes. I mount the Chinese made single-speed and check both front and rear brakes; neither are functional. I point this small shortcoming out to our rental agent and he quickly mounts the bike, assures me <i>no problem, no problem </i>and disappears down the street. He returns ten minutes later riding one bike and causally steering another that rolls beside him. He dismounts, happily presents our new and improved transportation and asks for a passport as collateral on the bikes. I check the other bike over and its brakes are not operable either, but I am anxious to get going so I don't point out the small mechanical deficiency of my two dollar rental.<br />
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Off through the back roads of town Jenny and depart, weaving though narrow city streets crowded with vendors selling everything from live ducks to buckets of snails to counterfeit Rolex watches. Soon we clear the teeming roads, cross the muddy brown waters of the Red River and are cruising through lush fields of rice. Goats, cows and water buffalo roam free apparently unattended and school children pass us on bikes, smile and yell out <i>Hello, hello!. </i>Jen and I return an exuberant <i>Xin chao, </i>which always seems to elicit smiles or giggles.<br />
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We pass the day exploring the county side and dive into the cover of a restaurant to enjoy cold Han'oi bia' and Vietnamese spring rolls when the skies darken and then open up with a violent downpour. We sit watching the rain bounce off the pavement and Jen remarks, <i>People just seem friendlier here, don't they? </i>I don't know if it's because I'm seeing this place through the rose colored glasses that seem to paint my world when I view it from the saddle of a bike, but I must agree that the people of Ninh Bihn seem a bit more affable than their urban neighbors of Hanoi just a couple hours north.<br />
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The rain subsides; Jen and I mount our suspect steeds with sore bums and retrace our path through the country, navigate the maze of narrow urban paths and drop our bikes off late in the late afternoon. We walk through neighborhoods filled with young families enjoying the coolness the rains have brought to the evening. A father plays soccer with his child who can barely walk, young children race by on bicycles, say a few phrases in english, giggle and and ride off again. Elderly men and women sit on short stools contentedly watching the world go by from the curb and stare at Jenny and me with stoic curiosity. A shallow bow of my head and an a quite <i>Xin Chao </i>seems to surprise them and elicits a warm smile in return. <br />
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Soon we find ourselves being followed by a gaggle of curious school children eager to practice their english skills on a couple of <i>nguoi phuong tay</i> (westerners). One girl boldly runs to my side and touches my arm and then quickly retreats to the security of her snickering friends near the front door of a house. Remembering that I am ambassador for my country, Jen and I stop and make small talk with the kids, entertaining their questions until language skills limit the extent of their inquiry. As we continue to our hotel I smile thinking about how these kids' first encounter with an American is likely much different than that of their grandparents.<br />
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Jen and I arrive back at the Siagon Hotel and are greeted warmly by the receptionist and the handsome woman who we come to understand owns the hotel. Although we have just come to retrieve our bags and pay our bill, the owner of the hotel insists we sit and and enjoy a complimentary coffee. As we relax enjoying dark Vietnamese coffee sweetened with condensed milk, the invitation is extended further to dinner at the hotel's 5th floor restaurant. I give Jenny a quick wink and we soon find ourselves riding the elevator up to an unexpected feast.<br />
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<b>Saturday May 2nd. Ninh Bihn Rail Station. </b><br />
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After doing our best to express gratitude to our host, Jen and I shoulder our packs and walk thirty minutes in the dark to the railway station at the heart of town. The ever-present smell of cigarette smoke permeates the night air as a couple dozen Vietnamese, a few western tourists and a handful of cab drivers wait in the sultry dark for the Reunification Express night train to arrive from Hanoi. I think about the funny set of circumstances that brought Jenny and I to this out of the way town a bit off the beaten tourist track of Vietnam, and how everything fell into place over the past couple of days. Although I never reunited with my beer-swiggin' buddy Thuy, and our trip to Ninh Bihn went nothing like we had "planned", I can honestly say that it turned out better and I am still <span style="text-align: center;">thankful that we took ole' Thuy up on his drunken invitation.</span><br />
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Kloshe konaway</div>
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jen and I bought a canned tourist package to Ha Long Bay which has been declared a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Heritage_Site">UNESCO World Heritage sight</a>. The limestone formations and natural beauty of this area are nothing short of amazing, the pollution however is shocking. The tourism industry seems to be enjoying unchecked growth and it appears to be a race to the bottom in this game from my point of view. All I could think of touring around the Bay and Cat Ba Island for a couple days is the plight of the fishermen who were here before tourism and depend on the health of the ecosystem to survive. They benefit little from the hoards of tourists that spew diesel and human waste into the water, but will be left with the legacy long after the tourist disappear because nobody wants to visit a bay full of rubbish.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Typical home of the inhabitants of Ha Long Bay. Entire family live the lives out these tiny floating homes and draw sustenance and a live from the water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Double windsor tutorial. This guy was a quick learner and was soon tying knots around the neck of anyone who would stand still long enough to get lassoed! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiK3wYMSef2qfWVv6qLmzrCr_8D9xV5mQOryOS-e6dGtBaA3NZ8gdg5OuaBTZCYPaZJ0PxTONewmYphmHWzRyF-sjvI6GOdaebsTPUF7Amit9EJ_y_aycg9Gj785E_MhyphenhyphenJEWAWQMHSoYTi/s1600/IMG_7460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiK3wYMSef2qfWVv6qLmzrCr_8D9xV5mQOryOS-e6dGtBaA3NZ8gdg5OuaBTZCYPaZJ0PxTONewmYphmHWzRyF-sjvI6GOdaebsTPUF7Amit9EJ_y_aycg9Gj785E_MhyphenhyphenJEWAWQMHSoYTi/s1600/IMG_7460.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Vietnamese Cargo Bike. These machines are anything but some hip urban trend. Real transport of goods and services occur via pedal power in Vietnam on a daily basis and provide a vital niche in the economy; albeit only by people who cannot afford a motorbike and petrol.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Homeboy is rowing with his feet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Everything is good when it is battered and deep fried!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Return of Captain Red Beard.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nothing like a Vietnamese Lager after a day on a bike in 90/90. (90 degree F & 90% humidity). </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOODeGtb7Lr7rbPwho2OWRXFt53bq_dOJ3ldhai45C1rGWNQOWS2V0N1gcTuU-_TXfN7Pr7x9ZBUJyBdUbXRDFCl20HsouICOteNsIPBtvqKIi8NTEvqy1kOeR7tJgZbI2qNR9ifLBKGO/s1600/IMG_4435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOODeGtb7Lr7rbPwho2OWRXFt53bq_dOJ3ldhai45C1rGWNQOWS2V0N1gcTuU-_TXfN7Pr7x9ZBUJyBdUbXRDFCl20HsouICOteNsIPBtvqKIi8NTEvqy1kOeR7tJgZbI2qNR9ifLBKGO/s1600/IMG_4435.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nothing like an undersized single speed bike with short cranks to help a sore knee heal up.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWq-LG7l0ZIqVZ4jHgtxYKbV0SwRIozv5AUcm8UaKsU34kzMRX_z6prF1uLhee-cItKcZsBq6QCN0XqrxkSTpAe2xNVJlMZCsNAhOVJrGBGtmIq_r68se1PBGNQGkuPoR3amMLocLqEyE/s1600/IMG_7497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWq-LG7l0ZIqVZ4jHgtxYKbV0SwRIozv5AUcm8UaKsU34kzMRX_z6prF1uLhee-cItKcZsBq6QCN0XqrxkSTpAe2xNVJlMZCsNAhOVJrGBGtmIq_r68se1PBGNQGkuPoR3amMLocLqEyE/s1600/IMG_7497.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">You won't see this ride at the Seattle Bike Expo next year, but I guarantee that it has seen more action in the last year that most fancy cargo bikes seen in a lifetime.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The longer I am here the more convinced I am that Vietnam is nearly a perfect place for a bike tour. Bikes are a integral part of the transpiration culture and widely used on all roads, there is relatively low private car traffic, accommodations are cheap and available and food is out of this world. I wish I had my bike.</span></div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-19972837415898655192014-04-27T02:41:00.002-07:002014-08-06T19:53:11.027-07:00The Adventure Continues<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrR6WdiMiLz-hdxB2e1vOtSLbXXp2edFLd_htkQNBUo6Dxnl6Nw3I_CcRo2obW0WBZPO1typXWPJ2L87zDx70GCwif1cE6Xl1yYLQLTSY8CGW4EQdMVq5VlrE0r6qTdbbggcH1Z_CU_TQ/s1600/Image+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdrR6WdiMiLz-hdxB2e1vOtSLbXXp2edFLd_htkQNBUo6Dxnl6Nw3I_CcRo2obW0WBZPO1typXWPJ2L87zDx70GCwif1cE6Xl1yYLQLTSY8CGW4EQdMVq5VlrE0r6qTdbbggcH1Z_CU_TQ/s1600/Image+5.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Life is a beach, and I am redhead with a bald spot.</span></div>
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<i>Where oh where has the Front Door Adventure gone?</i> A few of my dedicated readers (aka Mom) have inquired as of late regarding my extended absence from the interwebs. To tell the truth I have found myself asking this exact question lately as the blinking cursor and white page stare back at me with indifferent cruelty for hours at a time. Lucky I'm unemployed and have time to waste. It's not that I haven't been trying, it just feels like I don't have much inspiring to say lately, so I figure maybe I should just keep my mouth shut eh?<br />
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Maybe it's the fact that after over two months of rest, my knee is not much better for the lull in physical activity. Might I feel a little pissed off that in the year of freedom Jen and I worked so hard to achieve, I am unable to celebrate the liberty of unhindered movement? Yeah, I feel a little cheated and the hulk knocks loudly on the edge of my psyche on a fairly regular basis, but there I go again bitching about my first world problems which isn't really that fun to read about. Again, maybe I should just keep my mouth shut?<br />
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Maybe it's because I broke all the rules? Front Door Adventures has always been about style, shrinking my footprint and human powered adventures that mobilize from the doorstep. Inspiration has always been born from the ethical code of these adventures for me; is this lull in creativity because I have desecrated my own constitution? Is it a big surprise that driving a rental car up the East Coast of Australia from beach to beach provides no impetus for writing about the virtues of minimalistic travel?<br />
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Hard to say why the cats got my tongue, but a sleepless night on a train to the mountains of NW Vietnam and a three dollar mini-keg of cheap beers finds me back at the keyboard long after Jenny has bid me goodnight and retired to the comfort the bed of our sweet thirteen-dollar hotel room. I miss my bike and think often of how awesome it would be to be pedaling through this culturally rich and beautiful corner of the world, but hell, at least I'm no longer behind the wheel of a car.<br />
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Someday, in the not to distant future, i'll saddle my trusty steel stead and pedal off into the mountains again, but until then I'm pretty happy to have my life packed on my back and traveling on trains, buses, motorbikes and foot with my lovely wife through the beautiful country of Vietnam.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch <br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Sydney, Australia. Whenever I visit cities that have transportation dialed, I wonder when Seattle is going to get its act together. Jenny and I had dinner with friends about 15 miles from where we were staying and covered the distance in about an hour via bus, ferry, train and foot. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The last time I saw my cousin Kirsty, I had hair and threw her off the porch in a drunken swing dancing episode. I kept things a little more under control this time around!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">This guy hung out by our car for the two days we stayed at Crowdy Bay National Park. He was fond of taking huge dumps all around the car and growling at us when we we tried to get in the boot.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree, merry merry king of the bush is he….</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I know this one girl who really likes going to the beach.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfR87OR09b66YdCUUIhbrQF46gLgdkXQ0rfrCRKnD9_7Z-j78Dyk-F0rXo01Im8uw4aFLNkdKyO3STbT3cb5Ym7jbNW1N4zlinxk0jRgoBfoERK-AhDg9B6x9ngp4-cIKRHwAJ1gG8gx_y/s1600/Image+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfR87OR09b66YdCUUIhbrQF46gLgdkXQ0rfrCRKnD9_7Z-j78Dyk-F0rXo01Im8uw4aFLNkdKyO3STbT3cb5Ym7jbNW1N4zlinxk0jRgoBfoERK-AhDg9B6x9ngp4-cIKRHwAJ1gG8gx_y/s1600/Image+7.jpg" height="400" width="383" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">No pot of gold at the end of this one for Jenny, but she did find a lepreacaun.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hanoi wheel building 101.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksC6E19r0p15O6pMxhpc-w1IGpsKZdq9cQwy9lsQM-lLV7Dptr82tmHFqot7EUtMlyIunCDucu7PUWj2DnWsZ9Fdh5Dh4vLWA04kwQup-xUOk9HDGzEUJcTcVPwHpJ4NFZnGAPSqo7STC/s1600/IMG_7248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksC6E19r0p15O6pMxhpc-w1IGpsKZdq9cQwy9lsQM-lLV7Dptr82tmHFqot7EUtMlyIunCDucu7PUWj2DnWsZ9Fdh5Dh4vLWA04kwQup-xUOk9HDGzEUJcTcVPwHpJ4NFZnGAPSqo7STC/s1600/IMG_7248.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dress shopping in Hanoi. Hand sewn and custom tailored for $25. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQWO05ho0GU30Lcrarkq5Ta81fjkPi-xsVDzja5Otpf8jg4IzFSKfZkWvyru5-EHE2MR2jE3JErcBFP8ThmbQICoVyrRaHkR36dHK-XvadkxTRSbPcQTFIOlri2sRZqPpbBnrXwjSUvBm/s1600/IMG_7259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQWO05ho0GU30Lcrarkq5Ta81fjkPi-xsVDzja5Otpf8jg4IzFSKfZkWvyru5-EHE2MR2jE3JErcBFP8ThmbQICoVyrRaHkR36dHK-XvadkxTRSbPcQTFIOlri2sRZqPpbBnrXwjSUvBm/s1600/IMG_7259.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Although things are changing rapidly, Vietnam is very much a third world country in many ways. Even in the bustling city of Hanoi, it is not uncommon to see scenes like a man pushing a cart stacked with bamboo scaffolding and a bicycle through the busiest intersection in town.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hanoi recycling program.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Not Portlandia. 90 percent of the bikes that I see in Hanoi are these 30 year-old Chinese made single speed rides. The simplicity and state of repair doesn't stop the Vietnamese people from loading them up and conducting all sorts of commercial enterprises from them. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hanoi cargo bike; exhibit a. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hanoi cargo bike; exhibit b. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hanoi cargo bike; exhibit c.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghp82UuwhM8dyUv3tspXgCRGRRc8iRZVxcIVv3tlpefBaqkDYgF-f9soKOx-anFQZtoct2oPokqaQ4AECF_kSKBZucagqew9c0r_2zWmODoXO8Nvx3oPfEoytmOEMTVS61BKoGXoW2wB5Y/s1600/IMG_7286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghp82UuwhM8dyUv3tspXgCRGRRc8iRZVxcIVv3tlpefBaqkDYgF-f9soKOx-anFQZtoct2oPokqaQ4AECF_kSKBZucagqew9c0r_2zWmODoXO8Nvx3oPfEoytmOEMTVS61BKoGXoW2wB5Y/s1600/IMG_7286.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Vietnamese humboa rolls. Fresh pastry roll with mystery meat on the inside. Just needs a little gravy and it would be Thanksgiving! </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Street food in Vietnam is out of this world, but not for the timid. Mystery meat on a stick! </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mystery meat soup. Jen will pass on seconds!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Egg coffee, something to try…once.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Of all the things that amaze me about Vietnam, traffic law tops the list. Completely uncontrolled intersections are the norm and the only rules seem to be lay on the horn and avoid collisions. Crazy that is all seems to work!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Wildcat!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpamsRCSF2wDrfe1Q_b7LFTmK7fWptWyZS5huh1F0toFEDR3hM-X_UhxClBzduFQ_hMM0pNhUbygwuHHZMZ5qQsUeeX-zeC8Gn7eqo0ITxbo9RZbQbYmrFekk1gXcbO7QOJ5od_njdrXuf/s1600/Mail+Attachment+copy+2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpamsRCSF2wDrfe1Q_b7LFTmK7fWptWyZS5huh1F0toFEDR3hM-X_UhxClBzduFQ_hMM0pNhUbygwuHHZMZ5qQsUeeX-zeC8Gn7eqo0ITxbo9RZbQbYmrFekk1gXcbO7QOJ5od_njdrXuf/s1600/Mail+Attachment+copy+2.jpeg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I bargained with this guy for a haircut for $2 US. He was drunk and I think I overpaid by about $1.75, but the locals got a good laugh out of me and I the next photo is worth at least a dollar!</span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-5415413922228828702014-03-13T15:05:00.000-07:002014-08-06T19:52:29.429-07:00Old man disease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Life is what happens to you while you are making other plans.</i></div>
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<i>~John Lennon</i></div>
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<b>A Riddle</b></div>
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What do you get when you cross a ten kilometer trail run, followed by 100 meter sprints the next day, followed by consecutive days of hiking 20 miles up and down steep mountains with a heavy pack?</div>
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a. A nasty case of bursitis in your knee.</div>
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b. A month of completely frustrating rest to no avail. </div>
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c. A really grumpy asshole of a husband who is largely difficult to be stuck traveling with.</div>
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d. Intermittent episodes of depression and rage.</div>
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e. All of the above.</div>
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Not all is well here at at Front Door Adventures as of late, which will explain the long absence of my rhetoric from the interwebs. It has been exceedingly difficult for me to find inspiration, and furthermore I suspect that my readers, aside from my mother, may find little interest in stories of sitting behind the wheel of my overheating and gutless van seeking out the flattest walks in New Zealand. </div>
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<b>First World Problems</b></div>
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The conversations in my head often sound something like this:</div>
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<i>So let's get this right Matt. You are on a year long vacation, you recently rode your bike in the company of your amazing wife across the United States, you incurred an overuse injury (not the first time in your life), and now you are feeling sorry for yourself and the predicament that you are in? Hmmm, you really need to sack up and quit being such a fucking baby. So things aren't turning out like you planned eh? </i></div>
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<i>Your family wasn't on a flight that disappeared out of the sky this week, foreign tanks are not rolling through the streets of your home as political turmoil and social unrest threaten to spiral into civil violence, you have food in your belly and a few dollars in your bank account.</i></div>
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<i>So you got yourself a sore knee eh mate; get over it and recognize how fortunate you really are!</i></div>
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<b>Signs</b></div>
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The cosmos is an interesting place and sometimes I can't wonder who is really running the big show. Jenny and I are working out in the city park in Palmerston North. A steady diet of boxing, burpees and pull-ups has helped me keep a grip on my sanity as of late. It's mid-day and the huge park is empty save Jenny,me and the fellows smoking a lunchtime joint behind the toilets.</div>
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My knee is sore and not improving at the rate that I have arbitrarily set in my head; I am in a foul mood. </div>
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Only two people wander through the field of sun-baked brown grass while Jen I trade turns punching the focus mitts. One is a young Asian man on crutches with his leg amputated high above his knee. The other, a young Kiwi walking his dog; the leash wrapped around his forearm absent of a hand.</div>
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<i>Get over yourself redhead!</i></div>
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<b>The Family Tour</b></div>
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In 1943 my Grandfather Ross Hoagland embarked New Zealand for a respite from fighting the Japanese in the South Pacific theater. During his stay, he met my Grandmother, Joan Henderson and wooed her with cigarettes, rides in his Army issued Jeep and a wallet flush of American dollars. In 1945, after the wars end, Grandma packed two suitcases, boarded a steamship and floated the Pacific to marry and start a new life in America. In less than a year, my mother was born.</div>
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On the other side of the ocean, Grandma's siblings Cicely, Alan, and Una grew large families of their own and have left me with a gaggle of cousins spread across this great country. As Jen and I head North and call on distant kin, I am reminded of what a brave woman my grandmother was. To leave family, friends and the familiarity of home required an optimism and intrepid spirt that I like to think runs through my veins today. </div>
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I am forever thankful for her courage. </div>
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Kloshe konaway</div>
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Kloshe nanitch</div>
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Matt</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">End of the great walking for Jen and me. The stunning Kepler Track.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsvvHCvAkJj-oLapon5XcqwhZliBIf3pGA15qKVQ1tZmj6PiBgj6l9qYsEz1A3NUPJcAIkX0bMTXkkykLDvf_kVClSTFlHxTZXEEpEpHprtQS0P7RI5m_IW3V3dSRYVi3hhhw27hol-fjF/s1600/IMG_6928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsvvHCvAkJj-oLapon5XcqwhZliBIf3pGA15qKVQ1tZmj6PiBgj6l9qYsEz1A3NUPJcAIkX0bMTXkkykLDvf_kVClSTFlHxTZXEEpEpHprtQS0P7RI5m_IW3V3dSRYVi3hhhw27hol-fjF/s1600/IMG_6928.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Cliff Mass would be proud. Something wicked this way comes…over a foot of rain in the next 24 hours. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9bgnGlUo3jp84DxSMjvaDLgUOCs1YqBa2Q5CC2gn5o99sJHteKMNo5jnUVN5y-LUBEngr__tqXhriSjwCxunJFpR0N0tz_ScaMWx1YeZJt-Zg6mMBpgYz7cJ5_NcBDpfF3ce7n2HJK38/s1600/IMG_6930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9bgnGlUo3jp84DxSMjvaDLgUOCs1YqBa2Q5CC2gn5o99sJHteKMNo5jnUVN5y-LUBEngr__tqXhriSjwCxunJFpR0N0tz_ScaMWx1YeZJt-Zg6mMBpgYz7cJ5_NcBDpfF3ce7n2HJK38/s1600/IMG_6930.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Halloween is celebrated in the month of February in New Zealand. Jenny is a rubber ducky.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvuBl2QGUBJW2ptQxOwYh-VFSxGwhGkf0Da7yk95Y8Dfc13z_X9DwGE4yUxXoiMMHOdcxU4packNgWArwodYrkofJ8AIoQ1G31kTunI8VWu73zak-iExdsXkNcKmeFr8TD7caSzQfeZa4/s1600/IMG_3182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvuBl2QGUBJW2ptQxOwYh-VFSxGwhGkf0Da7yk95Y8Dfc13z_X9DwGE4yUxXoiMMHOdcxU4packNgWArwodYrkofJ8AIoQ1G31kTunI8VWu73zak-iExdsXkNcKmeFr8TD7caSzQfeZa4/s1600/IMG_3182.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkYhSxbt2WRaIaa1jwbMweDvh8c_KWT5FpoGJF50qoAhbKd4DJM1cK4Z9aV_EcjnIj0_52PewmR7ECaIRR0NghkDrJ5ndz2Gn_FdQjaTjKfIqlfHtdhRseAIKpBDh9GZjSFVOl3aCy2ty5/s1600/IMG_6939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkYhSxbt2WRaIaa1jwbMweDvh8c_KWT5FpoGJF50qoAhbKd4DJM1cK4Z9aV_EcjnIj0_52PewmR7ECaIRR0NghkDrJ5ndz2Gn_FdQjaTjKfIqlfHtdhRseAIKpBDh9GZjSFVOl3aCy2ty5/s1600/IMG_6939.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Milford Sound and Mitre Peak in the background. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6w8qHkIQ-yG5UgA5pz-gdZdfd9Ug7VFv8JryOG1X8IrsXHbuFUBqLlPMdWWd8WpnIxZnn8Fw6OTvpSc3LzakC8Gi9OszqUG6IB2SLcQFSeYV7hBKfSK-C0-2hoBZNLrsQgel88Cbw9fz/s1600/IMG_3228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6w8qHkIQ-yG5UgA5pz-gdZdfd9Ug7VFv8JryOG1X8IrsXHbuFUBqLlPMdWWd8WpnIxZnn8Fw6OTvpSc3LzakC8Gi9OszqUG6IB2SLcQFSeYV7hBKfSK-C0-2hoBZNLrsQgel88Cbw9fz/s1600/IMG_3228.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm1LXiNP7aT1vP4xLokn3797ZHo3VniWY9bjYel7Ct2XogUvOowupH4sNeFP-mEnEk5BhGAOkWDVs6HOdqkQPjR7LdSgCNZmknuaEdj9WLr5dZJTyLfRWYPBPhsA26nSHp4JvD3Folld05/s1600/IMG_6945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm1LXiNP7aT1vP4xLokn3797ZHo3VniWY9bjYel7Ct2XogUvOowupH4sNeFP-mEnEk5BhGAOkWDVs6HOdqkQPjR7LdSgCNZmknuaEdj9WLr5dZJTyLfRWYPBPhsA26nSHp4JvD3Folld05/s1600/IMG_6945.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Summer in Dunedin lasts 48 hours and provides really spectacular sunrises.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzNZu91-uohLn4AHKLwRJ8gkMtdTkkduiW-8MVBMgFZz0Dgfo5M6los7j0o2v7OzyOZG2TDvpL8uQo6B6xJiNP18YG1ND0TeaG3RufGaLH_foWSBAr85TvpX_TWZhyphenhyphenT3Tu6hNAkJK2gnJ/s1600/IMG_3277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzNZu91-uohLn4AHKLwRJ8gkMtdTkkduiW-8MVBMgFZz0Dgfo5M6los7j0o2v7OzyOZG2TDvpL8uQo6B6xJiNP18YG1ND0TeaG3RufGaLH_foWSBAr85TvpX_TWZhyphenhyphenT3Tu6hNAkJK2gnJ/s1600/IMG_3277.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoDngbTewCXvkoG2IjXoDnw98tLYcRPEIt4w1XE_juh8OmzuFssg8qucxYqK7thz8GvpYxtC77gcpGNRWmIcpLozUClN_4jpkxL94yeh3j6BY6DvEnVRasB-ptFc7xmuqGkCuQuP4Vnvz9/s1600/IMG_3268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoDngbTewCXvkoG2IjXoDnw98tLYcRPEIt4w1XE_juh8OmzuFssg8qucxYqK7thz8GvpYxtC77gcpGNRWmIcpLozUClN_4jpkxL94yeh3j6BY6DvEnVRasB-ptFc7xmuqGkCuQuP4Vnvz9/s1600/IMG_3268.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">If wearing hair nets & face masks, screaming children and obese Australian tourists are your type of thing, I highly recommend the tour of the Cadbury Factory in Dunedin. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsCRQvLJ4_SxMECUv04Ju1g1sxw7arBqqt38kd1KF_mkfkpuEvzzDOvPiobvqO6BYVoZqrdj9LUXdIu2-P0HEZqfyNZq4F6gW-rRUqDFBgGAHe7gfXOMz-nE2B9WKUxXNa2u7deytakDk/s1600/IMG_3273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsCRQvLJ4_SxMECUv04Ju1g1sxw7arBqqt38kd1KF_mkfkpuEvzzDOvPiobvqO6BYVoZqrdj9LUXdIu2-P0HEZqfyNZq4F6gW-rRUqDFBgGAHe7gfXOMz-nE2B9WKUxXNa2u7deytakDk/s1600/IMG_3273.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOMZm9vgTkRsRYUAOqK6vvnx3pk2tuXOopNSfkXkMnx6AuR6Dd8n2tIxmW7JphyphenhyphenTZrKRFU0Of1hARL_P7Mabi6F0g7XYSZ5pvw4yWSEN6vIccFHvjj0TjP8Xop34s5lsrkGmH5Glw0fqk/s1600/IMG_6952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOMZm9vgTkRsRYUAOqK6vvnx3pk2tuXOopNSfkXkMnx6AuR6Dd8n2tIxmW7JphyphenhyphenTZrKRFU0Of1hARL_P7Mabi6F0g7XYSZ5pvw4yWSEN6vIccFHvjj0TjP8Xop34s5lsrkGmH5Glw0fqk/s1600/IMG_6952.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fish n' Chips in the van with the Schonthal Family. Ben, Paula, Oliver and Henry.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_zyU_BHweJQAgtpm9aPGz8-7wIOlNBJ3TAWo9Y-4940EwSKYU4zY9rV84bLBbXFw1AW3ZJ6tl42E9epd5oPnJGHD7nLcX5G_1fgcQsLLmHIG8rfidaxWQHlgvimciYKBluJyfnebWpXe/s1600/IMG_6965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_zyU_BHweJQAgtpm9aPGz8-7wIOlNBJ3TAWo9Y-4940EwSKYU4zY9rV84bLBbXFw1AW3ZJ6tl42E9epd5oPnJGHD7nLcX5G_1fgcQsLLmHIG8rfidaxWQHlgvimciYKBluJyfnebWpXe/s1600/IMG_6965.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_j7oGC0HUthYUSsNgzfYqw_FEeGx03K97dv4LcyEbDeytUBMjChrZszNU_jDRwdYzwT269NsseZAsWNx6CzvjmCCT6MQV46S1zJk9UuZ8kiBr12pnOMPe9-KqWQ48mweAhlKG9S3brix4/s1600/IMG_6970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_j7oGC0HUthYUSsNgzfYqw_FEeGx03K97dv4LcyEbDeytUBMjChrZszNU_jDRwdYzwT269NsseZAsWNx6CzvjmCCT6MQV46S1zJk9UuZ8kiBr12pnOMPe9-KqWQ48mweAhlKG9S3brix4/s1600/IMG_6970.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i style="font-size: small;">Phocarctos hookeri</i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> (male)</span></div>
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<i style="font-size: small;">Phocarctos hookeri</i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> (female)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRiTP8mE6agIKKXV0qXjBIs6kSDrGLffq7sXOZZq0bTKcJ3qrIG4dbnE1eM9pvCvg8r5kIhpO7CaZiRPkMsrgI_8DqoQ9j4G2LPKGwvVQmnwsJVuhzSMBfV44VNILX8QNA-P0wpj0hblji/s1600/IMG_6987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRiTP8mE6agIKKXV0qXjBIs6kSDrGLffq7sXOZZq0bTKcJ3qrIG4dbnE1eM9pvCvg8r5kIhpO7CaZiRPkMsrgI_8DqoQ9j4G2LPKGwvVQmnwsJVuhzSMBfV44VNILX8QNA-P0wpj0hblji/s1600/IMG_6987.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Where the Wild things Are!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6IxCMX_pchYC0bf6RCWmG__fll2KgvSwrNdlz0S_4l2KyFBUxZ6zttpYnllE2jR5DsSs4tSwd5oh-4Bm4EZaZGrQE3on2R5nibL9YHb7ymZ_z7gtA_b2bMNVGM0kdZ-QYkfgbLXeS5yr/s1600/IMG_6992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6IxCMX_pchYC0bf6RCWmG__fll2KgvSwrNdlz0S_4l2KyFBUxZ6zttpYnllE2jR5DsSs4tSwd5oh-4Bm4EZaZGrQE3on2R5nibL9YHb7ymZ_z7gtA_b2bMNVGM0kdZ-QYkfgbLXeS5yr/s1600/IMG_6992.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Megadytes antipodes</span></i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mount Ruapehu, Tongariro National Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> World famous Bluff Oysters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The best part of the Tauranga is Aunt Barb!</span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-33704692630237927232014-02-11T13:53:00.001-08:002014-08-06T19:51:44.687-07:00High Places<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The truth is that my career being exposed to heights had rather inglorious beginnings.<br />
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When I was six years old, my first grade class took a field trip to Carnation Farms in the rural Snoqualmie Valley of Eastern King County, Washington. The morning was filled with uneventful childhood bliss of goat petting, hay rides, chicken chasing and likely pestering my mother to buy me sugar treats. My joyous enterprise however, came to screeching halt shortly after lunch when the class went for a short walk in the Tolt MacDonald Park. All went well until I approached the banks of the Snoqualmie River. Hoards of my screaming classmate enthusiastically clamored past across the precariously hung wooden swing bridge to the other side of the river as I stopped dead in my tracks as panic overtook me. There I stood, paralyzed in fear, sure the bridge would collapse the minute I set foot and deliver me to an icy death in the depths of the raging Snoqualmie River below. <br />
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Neither my loving Mother nor my dear teacher Ms. Scrindy could convince me otherwise, and it wasn't until the kind-hearted Roundhill Twins, Jenny & Chrissy, noticed my episode of panic and escorted me by hand across the bridge and was I delivered from this most embarrassing of calamities. <br />
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Why or how I would grow up to be a climber of mountains, waterfalls and rock cliffs I do not clearly understand myself. As we steeply ascended terribly exposed friable schist outcrops of the Cascade Saddle Route in Mount Aspiring National Park, I revisited this question in my head. Jenny would be perfectly happy with the views from the valley below or walking along beaches of sand near the breaking surf of the ocean, but something draws me upwards, always just a bit little higher, until there is nowhere to go but down. Maybe the simplicity and singular focus required to get safely up and down from dangerous places quiets the internal noise of living in an overly complicated world. Maybe the grandiose expanse of being in the mountains reminds me that no matter how we scar this planet with the viral human condition that the world will go marching on without us. And just maybe I am still trying to outrun the humiliation of an awkward toe-headed and toothless boy standing at the edge of the Snoqualmie River nearly weeing in his pants at the thought of crossing a perfectly safe trestle from one side to the another.<br />
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In all honestly, I am not sure what draws me to high places, I just know that I am little happier person when I come back down.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch <br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Emerald green water of the Copeland River, Copeland Valley New Zealand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hottub with a view. Welcome Flats in the Copeland Valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Mount Sefton glowing in the distance and Scott Peak in the foreground.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Douglas Rock Hut, upper Copeland Valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Navigator Range from the upper Copeland Valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Lyttle Peak over the Copeland River.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Brewster Track, Mount Aspiring National Park. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Top of Mount Armstrong with Mount Brewster in the Distance.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> The worlds only alpine parrot, the mischievous Kea is reputed to be the smartest bird in the world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Not a bad place to stay the night. Brewster Hut, Mount Aspiring National Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jenny fired up about the sunshine in the West Matukituki River Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Cascade Saddle Route in Mount Aspiring National Park is one of the most stunning and picturesque "hikes" I have ever been on. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dart Glacier, Mount Aspiring National Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rob Roy Peak from high on French Ridge in Mount Aspiring National Park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Decent view of Mount Barff.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Don't go down there.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">French Ride Hut, Mount Aspiring National Park.</span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-90490420266929387762014-01-21T14:32:00.000-08:002014-08-06T18:29:14.552-07:00The Return of the Hulk<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">High in the Arthur Range. Patriarch Mountain in the background.</span></div>
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It has been a while since I have seen the Hulk, as I try to keep him in reserve for when he is truly needed. However, cramped inside our stuffy van at Siberian Flat campground on the Wangepeka River I could feel my blood boil, eyes redden and muscles tense against the fabric of my shorts. What could possibly set me off in this paradise of New Zealand seven months removed from the stresses of my grown-up life in Seattle? I slapped at my itching visage and smeared a dozen tiny black flies filled with my own blood across my balding forehead, repeatedly slammed my cheap plastic air mattress against the roof of the van and screamed out in curses not repeatable here on the pages of Front Door Adventures. Jenny waited patiently outside the van for the episode to pass, my heart rate to slow and my skin color to return to normal. Bless my poor wife. <br />
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It is true that New Zealand harbors virtually no dangerous flora or fauna. You won't get bitten by nasty snakes or attacked by a bear tramping through the thick bush of this beautiful and unique archipelago Country. You may however completely lose your mind trying to battle the robust populations of <a href="http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/sandflies-and-mosquitoes/page-1">austrosimulium australense</a> that make their home on the West Coast of Southern New Zealand. The brochures of majestic peaks, white sand beaches, crystal clear rivers and rollings hills of thick native bush are strangely absent of angry red-headed tourists covered head to toe in thick clouds of tiny sandflies, swatting fruitlessly in every direction and screaming like a madman at the air; but rest assured it is all part of the authentic New Zealand experience. <br />
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As far as I can tell the only way to escape the assault is to climb out of the river valleys and beaches above the bush line into the peaks of the mountains that rise steeply out of the Tasman Sea and run the length of the West Coast of Southern New Zealand. With this in mind, Jenny and I shouldered our packs with four days of food, followed the Wangepeka River deep into the Kahurangi National Park and climbed steeply up the wooded slopes of Kiwi Creek into the southern end of the Arthur Mountain Range. Over the next three days, we traversed north along exposed alpine ridges of snow grass with the Marino Range towering to the south, the rugged Kendall Range rising proudly to the west and the vast oceanic void of Cook Strait expanding into the northern horizon. <br />
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The mountains are the place I feel most at ease and the beauty of this place almost made me forget the itchy scabbing red welts beginning to heal on my flesh. Alas, all good things must come to an end and heavy northwest winds blowing hard against the aluminum walls of the John Reid Hut signaled our time had come to descend from the high country and ford the Wangepeka before it swelled into a flood and trapped us into an exposed, hungry wait on the wrong side of the River. <br />
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As expected the swarms of sandflies were eagerly awaiting my return to the valley and attacked with a renewed ferocity and vigor as I stopped just long enough at the river's edge to swap my boots for sandals. I breathed easy however, closed my eyes and put myself back atop Patriarch Mountain in the warm sun and cool alpine breeze that I hold so dear, and managed to keep the Hulk at bay rationalizing the stinging bites as the small price of entry. Nowhere in the world is perfect, but after a couple weeks exploring the South Island, I can say that New Zealand comes pretty darn close.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">NZ does it right when it comes to backcountry access. Swing bridges span many rivers and side creeks making travel both drier and safer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The thick flora of Kahurangi National Park tell as story of over 2 meters of annual rain fall and reminds me of the Olympic National Park at home.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Over 1000 Backcountry huts adorn the landscape of New Zealand and make carrying tent unnecessary in many circumstances.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jenny approaching the summit of Patriarch Mountain. The high ridges of the Arthur Range extend in the background and give us a good look at the next days' traverse.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Sorting it all out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> John Reid Hut. Pretty ok position looking our onto the Marino Range and Mount Owen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Room with a view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Jenny contemplating the steep descent to the Wangepeka River under threading skies.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">River crossings are a frequent occurrence in the backcountry of New Zealand and the leading cause of accidental death among trampers. Weather changes quickly here and tame streams become raging rivers in a very short period of time.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hints of the Hulk knocking at the door and 'the finger of death' with carnage of twenty-odd sandflies on the tip. No mercy, no pity, no guilt and no remorse. </span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-82171242457359750092014-01-15T17:24:00.002-08:002014-08-06T17:47:57.400-07:00The Hypocrisy of a World Traveler<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I did it.<br />
I hopped on a jet and flew halfway around the world spewing 2.7 metric tons of carbon into the atmosphere and doing my little part to speed the melting the icecaps, warm the planet and drown the lowland inhabitants of this fine planet. I also left my bike at home, and after driving the narrow winding roads of Southern New Zealand in my new used van for the past couple days, I can't say I really regret it. Don't get me wrong, my heart twinges with nostalgic longing when I pass the odd touring cyclist, but I decided a while ago to have a little different adventure in the land of the Kiwi. <br />
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It is undeniable that cycle touring opens doors to experiences that the automobile makes impossible, but the opposite is also true and the fact that New Zealand boasts some of the most pristine back country on Earth has pulled me to the ease of the automobile as a means of access. For a good while now I have been doing my best to live small and demonstrate the joys of recreating close to home under human power, but for the next couple months I am going to burn some fossil fuels and have an adventure with my lovely wife that I will not soon forget. <br />
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I know that it doesn't quite fit the rules of the Front Door Adventure, but hell, it's my blog and if you don't like it, quit reading.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">In February of 2011, a 6.3 earthquake rocked Christchurch leveling much of the city's old infrastructure. Three years later, the downtown is largely empty of commerce as planning and debate continue about the future of New Zealand's second largest city.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Concrete filled cargo containers retain many condemned, but still standing buildings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">My new Front Door, 1994 Toyota Estima. Good to go with new front brakes, a used tire and a tank of petrol. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Unsettled weather in the South Island convinced Jenny and I to head Northwest of Nelson to Able Tasman National Park and one of the Great Walks of New Zealand. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rugged coastlines thick with native bush dotted with pristine white sand beaches characterize this stunning 3-day walk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Several tidal crossing require good timing and barefoot travel.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">NOTHING makes Jenny happier than sunshine, the ocean and sand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rare sighting of a Blue Penguin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Weka bird. The locals say they aren't bad eating, albeit a bit chewy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">70 km by foot over three days or an hour by water taxi. </span></div>
Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-86451914419170765282013-12-11T19:52:00.002-08:002013-12-11T19:54:11.271-08:00Things I have learned<br />
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Snohomish, Washington to Saint Augustine, Florida. Google maps says it's 4,488 miles, but I think I can safely claim 4,500 and not be accused of lying. One hundred and fifty-seven days ago, Jen and I said a tearful goodbye to my folks and started an adventure that I will cherish in my heart, and God willing remember, until the day that I die.<br />
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Florida is flat, and when adequately motivated a fella and his lovely bride can cover quite a bit of ground in the Sunshine State on a daily basis. After parking our posterior's on a bicycle seat six to ten hours a day for the past five months, the comfort of a bed, a hot shower and a home cooked meal provided all the impetus needed to propel us our last five hundred miles to the East Coast. On Friday the 6th of December, under a warm blue Florida sky, Jenny and I parked our bikes on the boardwalk of Varn Beach in Palm Coast, cracked a cold one and plunged our dirty bodies into the calm cool waters of the Atlantic. We sat in the sand, taking in the expanse of the Ocean and began to wrap our heads around the meaning of this journey as a sinking sun painted the wispy clouds orange against the endless horizon to the east. A few miles away, my friend Jeff's parents welcomed us into their home with open arms. Phil and Penny tried their best to kill me with the size of the steak they served for dinner. In my glutinous celebration, I ate half of Jenny's dinner as well and chewed the bones clean; my Mother will rest easy knowing that I refrained from licking my plate at the table. Both Jen an I slept better than we had in several weeks six feet apart in the same room and I now understand the phenomenon of married couples sleeping in separate beds. I lovingly jest my wife about trading in our queen for two singles at home, but in every joke there lies a seed of truth.<br />
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On Sunday we saddled our creaking steeds and pedaled a foggy thirty miles north to Saint Augustine, the oldest European settlement in the continental United States. The sounds and smells of the ocean eerily cut through the hazy gloom as we made our way north at a blistering 5 mph. It felt really nice to know that I could loaf all day and not have to worry about finding a safe place to pitch the tent before dark. Bob and Jane Bond, old friends of our Aunt Sue greeted us with hugs, champagne and a wonderful meal of salmon, rice and salad; foods foreign to my tortilla and peanut butter based diet for much too long of a time. <br />
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Yesterday, without the faintest hint of separation anxiety, I wrapped two bikes, a BOB trailer, and over sixty pounds of gear in enough packaging tape to immobilize an elephant and posted it back to Snohomish. I am a little embarrassed about how much shit I hauled across the country and it feels good to be traveling a little lighter. If you are looking for advice on ultralight or ultrafast bicycle touring, you have not come to right place, but I think I can provide some useful bits about keeping your wife reasonably happy on a five-month bike tour. <br />
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In many ways, I don't know how to begin to articulate my feelings as this journey draws to a close. Before I left on the this trip, I spent more than my fair share of the time surfing on the interweb reading about the fabled 'magic of the road' that bicycle touring is reputed to summon. It is out here, and I have found it, but not in many of the ways that I expected. I have learned more than a couple valuable lessons about myself, my marriage and this great and unique country in which I reside over the past months. I have gained a much better understanding of the the role that bicycles will play in my own future, and that of our country. I am not the same man who left my Northwest home a few months ago. <br />
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As Jen and I leave our wheels behind, I must say that this journey has affirmed my belief that bicycle touring is one of the most amazing and profound modes of travel one can embark upon. You see sights, smell smells, and meet people that you couldn't traveling in the oppressive confines of an automobile; this is a fact. Without reservation I encourage others to find a way to explore their world on two wheels as I will continue to do in my future. At the same time, I must admit to myself and my readers that touring many of the roads in this country really isn't all that safe. Bicycle infrastructure, awareness and acceptance is progressing in many places, but make no mistake, America is a car country and nowhere is that more true than the South. It is best to remember this before rolling into traffic anywhere in this nation as you can be right in a battle with a car, but you're still not going to win the war. The highlight of many day's on this epic tour was the minute I pulled off the road, dismounted my bike for the day and rested easy knowing that the incidence of campers being run over by texting drivers is pretty low. There is simply no way of getting around the fact that you are an extremely vulnerable user who is at a gross disadvantage in the whole car versus bike equation. I don't for a minute regret undertaking this adventure, but I am relieved to have made it here safely. Above all, and more than ever I sincerely believe that communities which embrace the bicycle as part of their culture of transportation are physically, socially, economically and spiritually more vibrant than those that choose not to.<br />
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Without a doubt the most profound and enduring sentiment that I will take from this trip is that people of this country are generally pretty good folks. If not indifferent to your presence in their community, people are overwhelmingly polite, generous, helpful and in many cases over-the-top hospitable. It is not the places from this journey that will form my lasting memories, but the people that I met along the way who opened their homes and lives to us like we were family. I am forever grateful and look forward to the day I am able to my pay my gratitude forward. <br />
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Jen and I are taking the Amtrak up the coast this afternoon to have a little look around Savannah and catch up with some cousins' of Jen's in Atlanta before moving on. We'll be among family for the Holiday's and I am more excited about this than I have been in a long while; I miss home and the people that I hold most dear. We have a couple one-way tickets to New Zealand and not much of a plan outside of that at this point. I have a feeling that bikes are going to be part of the adventure, but then again, we might just walk from here.</div>
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Kloshe konaway</div>
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Kloshe nanitch</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Fired up about Florida</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFiniASlOFghK3dQQlmMuRw1LuDVInH0LARvvw32WfRGzHadIAiD-HgLAXDIIoxSoxvq5fiUCq8H7B3tJ7XnYC_XVSDJb4X8DqpquzrRU_sbwGQbYfF2ofkdxg5C01AwGpmCy8Py4nTzmh/s1600/IMG_2028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFiniASlOFghK3dQQlmMuRw1LuDVInH0LARvvw32WfRGzHadIAiD-HgLAXDIIoxSoxvq5fiUCq8H7B3tJ7XnYC_XVSDJb4X8DqpquzrRU_sbwGQbYfF2ofkdxg5C01AwGpmCy8Py4nTzmh/s400/IMG_2028.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Just because Florida is sunny doesn't mean it is warm. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Share the road has a little different meaning Florida.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Never heard of a Christmas Reef myself, must be a Southern thing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Banana's must be thawed prior to being sliced into the the legendary peanut butter breakfast taco. </span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrAeJryAjRXEM2CigUpZ9P29rTBvsp_oCbhJYsKwHdHgM1pEqwkZZUzjvR6tayKhtc8rNLJAdM5X2KrdGS_xqavPRDD1ZqL3TfIokntFWyViRyBM20VPgvP_6gELmrYTSEUhb9awRCtUip/s1600/IMG_6045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrAeJryAjRXEM2CigUpZ9P29rTBvsp_oCbhJYsKwHdHgM1pEqwkZZUzjvR6tayKhtc8rNLJAdM5X2KrdGS_xqavPRDD1ZqL3TfIokntFWyViRyBM20VPgvP_6gELmrYTSEUhb9awRCtUip/s400/IMG_6045.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Folks take their golf carts really seriously in Florida.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Great Ray Charles was raised in Greenville, Florida and a life-size statue stands in his honor at the city park.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nobody does a sandwich quite as good as my lovely wife Jenny.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Cavemen would have eaten banana cream pie for lunch if they would have know about it. I'm totally paleo except for my six cheat meals a day. </span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Malt liquor is fortified, so it is kind of like a vitamin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I heart rails to trails. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Although Jenny biking on sandy roads at sunset makes for good photos, it really is very fun.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Miles of kale in Northeastern Florida.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The best thing going on in Palm Coast; Phil and Penny Lord.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Saint Augustine hosts extraordinaire, Bob and Jane Bond!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">How could I say no to Ashely Cooper's fresh baked Pumpkin Cheescake at the the Saint Augustine Beach Farmers Market? </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">If you are in the area, check our her <a href="https://www.facebook.com/caribbeansolcafe">Caribbean Sol Cafe</a> for a taste of the local cuisine. </span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-48038691057699570722013-11-26T13:46:00.000-08:002013-11-26T21:31:40.157-08:00Southern Hospitality <br />
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The glamorous lifestyle of a touring cyclist.<br />
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The muffled chime of my watch alarm chirping through earplugs at six am announces the start of another day. The strong southeast wind blowing against our nylon and aluminum doublewide rudely proclaims what awaits us for our day on the road. Eventually I emerge from the warm, albeit somewhat rank embrace of our shared sleeping bag and face the gray skies of the southern Gulf Coast. I rush to fire up the stove and brew two cups of hot dark motivation as Jen packs up the bed and prepares for yet another long day in the saddle. <br />
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Try as I may, I can no longer deny that summer has come to an end. Fantasies of warm riding under sunny skies have been progressively crushed by the persistent headwinds and ever-colder days of the Gulf Coast November. Daylight is at a premium, and the undeniable lack of it requires a disciplined approach to cover the sixty miles a day that will get us to the Atlantic Coast on schedule. No more ten am starts or mid-day beers; for better or worse, riding has become a job and I must admit that many days the stoke is a little hard to muster.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Out of New Orleans, Jen and I followed wide, trash cluttered shoulders over the bayou formed between Lake Pontchartrain and Lake Saint Catherine under sunny skies. New houses built on 15-foot concrete stilts tell a story of a people who who understand the risk that living a few feet above sea level entails, but choose to make their stand here anyhow. Black clouds on the eastern horizon and strong gusts announced our soaking an hour before we rode into it. We crossed the Pearl River into Mississippi soggy-cold and pushed hard to reach Waveland by nightfall. Marine fog swallowed the night as we searched in the dark for Buccaneer State Park. Murphy's Law mandated a flat tire and my lack of motivation to wrench in the dark on a shoulder-less road required pumping every quarter of a mile to keep me rolling. The hulk knocked loudly on the door of my psyche, but I managed to keep him in check. We pitched our tent in the primitive site at the park nestled conveniently inches from the railroad tracks; you get what you pay for I guess. I neglected to zip the tent up completely and woke to a swarm of mosquitos buzzing around my head. None escaped my rage, but the pint of my own blood smeared on the inside of our tents among their body parts made the execution a little superfluous. Revenge, however made me feel a little better about the fresh track of bites along my receding hairline.<br />
<br />
The morning dawned cold and dark and we continued east along the white sand beaches of the Mississippi Coast. We blew through Bay Saint Louis, Gulfport, and Boluxi Mississippi riding 40 miles of concrete boardwalks that separate the beach from Highway 90. Casinos, fishing boats and a plethora of seafood restaurants tell of an economy dependent upon tourists that have been slow to return since Hurricane Katrina decimated this coast with sea waves over 55 feet high in 2005. We cut the day short at Ocean Springs and arrived at the Gulf Island National Seashore Park just before dark. Raccoons helped themselves to our food bag while Jen and I showered; at least the dirty little bastards didn't get to the whiskey.<br />
<br />
A new day and temperatures in the low forties invited the opportunity to wear every stitch of clothing we own. We stopped for a minute to watch the Brown Pelicans feed in the Davis Bayou on the way out of camp and I spotted a 10-foot alligator basking in the sun 50 feet from where we stood. She didn't respond when I called her to come closer nor when I offered to feed her my cute wife; no wonder the dinosaurs went extinct. It is funny how the small things lift your spirits and seeing one of these giant reptiles in the wild renewed my excitement for the unknown road ahead. Back on wide shoulders of Highway 90, Jenny and I pedaled into the wind towards Pascagoula on the quite Sunday morning. We passed a man parked along the side of the road blaring music from a huge stereo in the back of his truck into an empty field. He spotted us riding by, turned the speakers towards the highway and cranked <i>God Bless America</i> and pumped his fist into the air as we pedaled past. Some things you just have to see to believe. We crossed into Alabama in the afternoon, turned south and caught a rare tailwind covering the twenty miles to Dauphin Island in Mobile Bay as the sun sank low over the Gulf and the biting chill of a clear night set in. Morning welcomed with the nylon of the tent slapping violently in the east wind. We packed up in anticipation of starting the day with a quick ferry ride over Mobile Bay to the town of Gulf Shores and reaching Florida by nightfall. We pedaled across the street to the ferry terminal and were welcomed by a "Ferry closed due to high winds" sign across a locked gate. My heart sank as I realized that we were going to have to bike 100 miles around the bay to cover the distance that a two mile ferry would have delivered us. <br />
<br />
With stoic resolve we reversed our direction and pedaled back into a stiff crosswind towards the urban center of Mobile, Alabama. Navigating in and out of cities is my least favorite aspect of touring across this country, and Mobile is not a cyclist friendly metropolis. Busy four lane roads void of shoulder and frequent stops to navigate on the iPhone got us north of the city, back on Highway 90 and crossing the mouth of the Tensaw River in the late afternoon. The inevitability if being caught in the dark weighed heavy on my shoulders as Jen and I did our best to power against the strong eastern wind and the substantial rainfall promised for the night. With a sinking heart, we passed our campsite for the night and headed into Spanish Fort to buy groceries. A huge storm brewing off the coast and 100% chance of heavy precipitation in the forecast for the next two days required restocking of supplies for an inevitable day hanging out in the tent. Jenny pedaled hard, but I could tell she was not having fun; to tell the truth neither was I.<br />
<br />
Darkness fell as we arrived at the grocery. I waited outside, feeling, and no doubt looking quite dejected. After nearly five months on the road, the life a vagabond starts to lose it's appeal a little. As I sat planning the best route back to camp, a man dressed head-to-toe in University of Alabama apparel approached in a motorized shopping cart.<br />
<br />
<i>Bottom's gonna fall out'a the sky here in anotha' hour or two, where y'all staying tonight, </i>Brad inquired as he motored out of the grocery store.<br />
<br />
<i>Down at the State Park by the bay, </i>I responded unable to even recall the name of our intended home for the next couple of days.<br />
<br />
Brad frowned, <i>Hell, that sounds miserable. Y'all be gator bait down there. How many of y'all are there?</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Just my wife and I sir.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>How would you like to take a hot shower and sleep in a bed?</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
I felt pretty safe accepting the invite without conferring with my lovely wife and soon Brad was drawing me a map to his home on the outskirt of town. Within the hour Jen and were settling into our room with a queen bed and drinking beers by the fire with Brad while his wife Saundra cooked us hamburgers.<br />
<br />
We slept in this morning and ate eggs with toast for breakfast. It is 40 degrees and raining outside and Brad has extended our invitation indefinitely. Jen is roasting a chicken for dinner and we will celebrate an early Thanksgiving tonight and head out again tomorrow under a clearing sky. I cannot express in words the gratitude I feel towards folks who open up their doors to complete strangers such as Jenny and I. As much fun as this journey has been, the road can wear on you a bit and weaken one's resolve to finish what was started. The kindest gestures of hospitality; a warm bed, a hot shower and a home-cooked meal refuels my soul with determination and reminds me of the goodness that runs throughout the core of this country.<br />
<br />
Onward to Florida and what tomorrow may bring.<br />
<br />
Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
<br />
Matt<br />
<br />
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-66625500092937074592013-11-18T20:55:00.000-08:002014-08-06T17:46:42.077-07:00Cajun Country<div style="font-size: 15px; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; widows: 2;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Reason to Celebrate</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">I am not in the habit of drinking before midday, usually. But hell, it's always noon somewhere and a celebration </span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">was in</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"> order. As </span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">sincerely</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"> happy as I was to see Texas come, and as much as I thoroughly enjoyed my </span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">visit to the Lone Star State, a thousand miles of any place on a bike is enough to dampen the greatest of enthusiasm. Shots of whiskey were called for as Jen and I crossed the muddy Sabine River and entered the swamps of Louisiana. It could just be my renewed enthusiasm for the tour upon entering a new state, but the pace of Cajun Country seems a little slower than it's neighbor to the west, drivers appear to be in a little less of a hurry and folks come across a bit friendlier. I think I might like Louisiana. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Touring Romance</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Sweet Mother Mary of Jesus! </i></span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">Jenny choked through tears as the odoriferous </span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">assault</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"> migrated north in our dual sleeping bag. I giggled just a little, rolled over and sealed my head off from the defusing stank, not to be a victim of friendly fire in the warfare of flatulence.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">It is hard for me to feel bad; it really isn't my fault that I stink so bad. Much like our </span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">life at home, existence on the road calls for a division of labor. Jenny does all the grocery shopping and I sit outside with the bikes and bullshit with locals who feel like striking up a conversation with a guy in sandals and safety vest. When we arrive at camp, I drink cold beer and Jenny cooks dinner. I eat whatever I am served and can't be held responsible for it's impact on my digestive system. </span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">Jenny's culinary range has expanded exponentially in the past four months and what the girl can do with a can of baked beans, a bag of </span></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">broccoli and a tin of marinated sardines is simply amazing; she does however have to sleep in a confined space with the consequences.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Spencer</b></span><br />
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Sans helmet and barefooted, he sported basketball shorts and a neon green construction shirt.<br />
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<i>Where ya'all headed? Where ya'all from?</i>, were the first words out of his mouth as he pulled up along side of us on a solid looking steel framed mishmash of a bicycle with bar end shifters. Deep in Southern Louisiana, fellow bicyclists are a rare sight and Spencer was the first we had seen in hundreds of miles. <br />
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<i>We're from Seattle and headed to Georgia</i>, I replied as I tried to match his robust pace. <br />
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<i>Hell yeah! </i>he exclaimed, <i>I'm fixin' on doing the same soon as the crayfish season is up.</i><br />
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<i>We don't see to many cyclists down here, </i>Jen remarked as Spencer buried me and pulled along side of her. <br />
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<i>Hell man, this is Louisiana! Only poor folks ride bicycles down here! </i>he yelled over his shoulder as he sped off into the distance. <i>Ya'all have yo'selves a real good trip now, ya hear!</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Cheryl </b></span></div>
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Market Basket Grocery in Welsh, Louisiana. Like most evenings, I am sitting outside the store chatting up curious locals while Jenny shops for dinner. </div>
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Cheryl stopped her cart in front of our parked bikes and struck up a friendly conversation with me about where we were from and where we were headed. <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Her warm and calm demeanor permeated the discussion about travel throughout this country as she inquired about what motivated this adventure, what we ate and where we stayed on a nightly basis.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: 15px;">Wherever we can to tell you the truth. In fact, tonight we are sleeping over at the the city park. The policeman that we ran into drove me to city hall to pick up a key for the bathrooms. </span></i><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;">She continued to smile, but an immediate deep sadness fell over her visage and the corners of her eyes welled as she fought back tears. I wondered what I had said wrong.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;"><i>I understand there is a nice plaque at the park in honor of my son. He passed about a year ago now, and I just haven't been able to go over and have a look quite yet. Things are still pretty fresh. I am told they planted a nice tree there by the tennis court as well. He was thirty-seven years old.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;">I didn't know what to say, parents shouldn't bury their children and and I don't have the capacity to understand this type of pain. </span><i style="font-size: 15px;"> I am sorry for you loss ma'am, I'll make sure to go and have a look at the plaque in the morning.</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;"><i>That would be nice, he was a really great guy. God bless you. </i>She </span><span style="font-size: 15px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">turned and rolled her cart to the car. </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><b><span style="font-size: 15px;">It's not the heat, it's the humidity.</span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;"><i>Hot wet sticky sweet, from my head down to my feet…yeah...</i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 15px;"><i><br /></i></span><span style="font-size: 15px;">I doubt that Def Leopard was trying to describe a sleepless night in the bayou with these timeless lyrics, but the lines of Pour Some Sugar on Me keep rolling through my head as I lie awake, naked and suffocating in the sweltering heat of the Louisiana night. Mosquitos as big as hummingbirds swarm hungrily outside the mesh of the tent inches away from my cooking head. The fact that it is raining and 85 degrees defies everything that makes sense to me and I just wish that I could sweat. No way around it, Southern Louisiana is a hot swamp and I simply cannot imagine riding through here in August. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;">Several days of pedaling across the Gulf Coast of Louisiana under dark skies into stiff headwinds indicates that our endless summer is drawing to end. It is easy to forget that it is mid-November when most of your days are spent under blue skies and you haven't worn shoes for months. All good things must come to end though, and as we close in on New Orleans it seems the winter of the Northern Hemisphere is finally catching up with us. With less than 1000 miles to go before we reach the Atlantic Ocean, Jen and I are laying out the next several months of our life and very much looking forward to escaping south of equator for the New Zealand summer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;">Kloshe konaway</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 15px;">Kloshe natich</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 15px;">Matt</span><br />
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Frozen chamios are super comfy.</div>
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Back in the land of mosquitos. Jenny is a ruthless killer, 4 in one slap!</div>
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Louisiana is the northern most latitude that sugar can be grown and the state produces over 1.4 million tons of raw sugar each year. Saint Mary's Sugar Processing Plant.</div>
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Pork "Cracklings" AKA deep fried pork skin. A cajun tradition and one that I can say I tried. I could feel my blood thicken as I ate and will refrain from partaking in the future.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 15px;">If cavemen would have known about donuts, they would have eaten them!</span></div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-77346604146154592042013-11-08T09:17:00.002-08:002014-08-06T17:44:28.243-07:00Notes from Texas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Terrain</div>
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After nearly 500 miles of unbending rough chip sealed roads I didn't believe it myself, but the westward bound cyclists we began to encounter outside of Del Rio assured us that the arid desert of West Texas would eventually subside to the relatively lush rolling terrain of Central Texas. I never imagined that I would be so happy to climb hills again, but I smiled broadly as I stood out of my saddle, pushed hard on the pedals and ascended steeply out of Brackettville into the thick oak, maple and sycamore trees that characterize the Texas Hill Country. After months in the desert, this Pacific Northwest Boy is more than ready for a little cooler temperatures and greener terrain. </div>
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Truth</div>
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As much as I like riding my bike, I must admit that sometimes I get a little sick of doing the same thing day in and day out. My legs have ballooned in the past four months under the steady propulsion of cranks at a blaring 10 mph, but my shoulders slump and a little belly sags over my tattered cycling shorts. I did push-ups and pull-ups for the first time in two months this week and feel like someone beat me with a two by four. Riding bikes can make you a little soft, although I am sure that my copious consumption of tortilla chips and beer has nothing to do with this phenomenon.</div>
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People</div>
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The best part of touring is the human interactions that traveling on a bicycle facilitates. In the ghost town of Langtry, Jenny and I rolled into town low on groceries at 5pm to find the gas station market closed. We met a wonderful couple traveling from Fort Worth while wondering the empty streets and shared a pot luck of SPAM, sardines, frozen vegetables and sherry. Andrew and Sue emptied the cupboards of their RV and filled our panniers worrying we wouldn't have enough to eat the next day. </div>
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In Del Rio, the Tooke family hosted us and entertained us with stories of racing the infamous <a href="http://www.raceacrossamerica.org/raam/raam.php?N_webcat_id=1">RAAM</a>. In 2011, Dallas Tooke in his early 60's, complete the Race Across America in a little over 12 days on a bike. Simply amazing.</div>
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In Ingram, Fred and Janice took us in, fed us and provided a soft bed. In the morning they departed for the opening of deer season hours before Jen and I were even thinking about stirring. They didn't hesitate to allow us to sleep in and trusted we would respect their home as our own. </div>
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In Blanco, Jenny and I rolled into a completely full State Park at dusk. Camp hosts Larry and Bonnie watched us come in, sought us out in the dark and invited us to stay with them. In the morning, we were treated to homemade biscuits, scrambled eggs, bacon and coffee and found it hard to the leave warm embrace of our new friends. </div>
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Austin</div>
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Bike lanes and microbrews. Whole Foods Market and fair trade coffee. Live country music and Texas Two Step. The thriving capital of Texas feels a lot like Portland in cowboy boots and has been perfect place for a much needed week of rest. Jen and I reunited with the one and only Kate Purcell who recently transplanted from Seattle and will soon be running this fine city. I caught up with my childhood friend Ryan we connected like only folks with a common history can do. I was reminded why shots of whiskey are always a bad idea.</div>
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Onward</div>
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We're told that the terrain east from here flattens out considerably and the miles begin to fly by (we''ll see about that!) Another week in Texas and we will be in Louisiana, eating fried everything and cycling the Gulf Coast. The tires are rotated on the bikes and Jen and I have our sights on the South and the Atlantic Ocean beyond. </div>
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Kloshe konaway</div>
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Kloshe nanitch</div>
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Matt</div>
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Impromptu potluck with Andew and Sue!</div>
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Pecos River.</div>
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Lots of this in West Texas. </div>
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I can't remember $2 gas in Washington! </div>
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Tortilla love. </div>
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J Hurst crushing the dirt terrain. </div>
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Drive through Beer Barn. God Bless Texas! </div>
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It's got to be noon somewhere! </div>
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Buddies and Big Ass Beer Night!</div>
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Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-84959947184764283872013-10-27T07:11:00.001-07:002014-08-06T17:44:00.036-07:00Lone Star<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us, or we find it not.</i><br />
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<i>~Ralph Waldo Emerson</i><br />
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Texas, the Lone Star State. The home of the 36th, 41st and 43rd President's of this Great Nation, the world's largest parking lot, defamed bicyclist Lance Armstrong and the Great Willie Nelson. It is land where you can still be hung for stealing or defacing another man's cattle and homosexuality is a misdemeanor. It is an interesting place to say the least.<br />
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It is a little difficult to fully comprehend the enormity of the second largest State in the Union without experiencing it, and after a week of riding several hundred of the State's 70,000 miles of pavement and hardly making a dent in the map, I think I am beginning to wrap my head around the fact that we are going to be in Texas for a while. I must admit that it was with a bit of trepidation that I entered the Lone Star State. Images of rednecks with huge trucks, blaring horns and airborne beer bottles haunted my mind as Jen and I rolled through thick canopies of pecan trees and chile fields of Southern New Mexico into the metropolis of El Paso/Ciudad Juarez. After a week of pedaling Southeast along the the Mexican Boarder, I can happily say that my estimations of Texas couldn't have been more wrong.<br />
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We rolled into El Paso late in afternoon as the sun painted the smoggy sky of Ciudad Jaurez sienna orange to the south. Our leisurely rural tour along Highway 28 transformed quickly into heads-up city cycling down the four lanes of Mesa Avenue as we approached the heart of the city. Despite the heavy traffic, drivers gave us plenty of room and waited patiently to pass. Bus stops full of hispanic folks smiled and waved as we rolled by. We found a specialty beer store and I procured a six-pack of canned Happy Camper IPA from Santa Fe; I heart Texas already. Ten miles of urban navigation brought us to the home of Doug & Pam Rowley, old family friends of Jenny's family. Jenny and I enjoyed a magnificent weekend and the warmest hospitality I could possibly imagine. As we depart, I am again reminded that it is the people that make places we visit most memorable.<br />
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Rolling out of El Paso, we head south under I-10 and cycle within spitting distance of Mexico. I expect the slums and urban decay associated with the drug wars being waged along this border, but feel ashamed of my own preconceived notions as we cycle through small border towns that are obviously poor; but clean, peaceful and full of pride. Old hispanic women stare, smile and give a thumbs up to us as we rolled pass and men look up from under the hoods of their cars and nod with warm approval.<br />
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We climb up into the mountains of West Texas through Sierra Blanca on frontage roads completely void of traffic, occasionally returning to the wide shoulders of I-10 for long stretches. Semi trucks change lanes to give us extra space; good natured honks and waves of approval come from both sides of the four lane interstate. Without a doubt, this is the friendliest place Jen and I have visited since leaving home. <br />
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Past Van Horn, we leave the noise of Highway 80 and turn east on Texas 118 into the desolate ranch land of the Davis Mountains. For hours we pedal the vast open valley without seeing a single car. We spot a huge desert bighorn sheep and packs of wild javalina before settling in among the cactus behind a giant water tank in the evening light. In the morning we climb easily 2000 feet over the top of Mount Locke and descend into Fort Davis. A half-dozen flat tires in the past two days brings out my inner hulk and propels us forward another 25 miles to Alpine Texas where we can buy some badly-needed tubes. We arrived in town at dusk and made the the uncommon choice to dine out instead of cooking dinner over the Whisperlite. After an unfruitful search for the Big Bend Brewery we located the Cowboy Grill on the outskirts of town. Loads of obese bus tourists waddling through the door indicated that the establishment would suit our needs well and we weren't disappointed after destroying a couple of burgers and beers. <br />
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We woke in the morning to another round of flat tires and our planned morning departure didn't happen until one p.m. The late start, a stiff headwind, two more flat tires and a roadside redhead temper-tantrum limited the day to 30 miles. We arrived in Marathon, Texas (population 400) on the eve of the annual "Marathon in Marathon" and the town was bustling with pre-race activity. We stopped at the French Grocery (yep, that's right the French Grocery) for provisions and made our way to the La Loma Del Chivo Hostel for the night. The Hostel is an eclectic mix of "alternative" buildings, colorful characters and howling dogs and reminded me immediately of Tatooine, the backwater desert home of Luke Skywalker. Concrete, stone and beer bottle structures litter the landscape and the caretaker Mike laughed so hard I thought he might die when I asked about local building codes. "Hell boy there ain't no building codes out here!", but as quickly as the smile had come to his face it vanished, "but don't go and hurt yourself on anything now, cause we ain't got a lick of insurance!" Jen an I slept soundly in a second story open loft overlooking Chihuahuan Desert and Puertacitas Mountains to the east.<br />
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Today, we woke early with the intentions of a covering lots of ground, but another round of flats ate up hours of riding time. We pulled into Sanderson Texas and checked into the RV park nestled right between the railroad tracks and the highway (earplugs have become essential kit). Not soon after our arrival, the Sheriff stopped by and invited us to the town Halloween Carnival at city hall. We dressed up as Seattlite's and our Chaco Sandals with socks make us more of a spectacle than adults dressed up like zombies in this neck of the woods; we enjoyed a little trunk-or-treating before heading back to camp for one of our road meal favorites, egg-drop Top Ramen noodles.<br />
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Rumor has it that a cold front is blowing in tonight which should put the wind on our backs tomorrow and push us south towards Del Rio. If the weeks ahead in Texas have been anything like this first, I look forward to seeing what the next bend in the road will bring our way.<br />
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Kloshe konaway<br />
Kloshe nanitch<br />
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Matt</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Beautiful Franciscan Mission adorn the small towns of the US/Mexico border.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nothing quite make me a Happy Camper like a <a href="http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/1683/61149">Happy Camper</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Van Horn Texas Saturday Night Ride. Oh, if this Cadillac could talk!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jenny is really turning over some new leaves on this trip and pushing her culinary boundaries. Nothing like a 24 of Bud at the end of a hot Texas day!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Not quite the Holiday Inn Express, but a nice wind block none-the-less.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Being from Snohomish, this sign got me all hot and bothered. Jenny explained that it simply meant that the cattle were unfenced. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The University of Texas McDonald Observatory sits at 7000 feet atop Locke Mountain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jen in full bloat stage.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mojo the dog had a little lame tongue issue, but we became fast friends anyhow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Room with a view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Desert structure recipe: Dome of rebar covered with chicken wire, as many beer bottles as you can find, couple hundred bags of ready mix.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Texas_brown_tarantula">Aphonopelma hentzi</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0pSBxJwduvSASZlePUVmfrgwE1SWDa4ucZRuGw9Bj8NHvWADTDunFWDq6qzw9D4G9GKkyleaDaSypsHR8-zO8MZ78ON1vrYnAmFXopzCoMYnPYvCj5WsHIRNeX9nU9smKjAKK8w-7CR2/s1600/IMG_5719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih0pSBxJwduvSASZlePUVmfrgwE1SWDa4ucZRuGw9Bj8NHvWADTDunFWDq6qzw9D4G9GKkyleaDaSypsHR8-zO8MZ78ON1vrYnAmFXopzCoMYnPYvCj5WsHIRNeX9nU9smKjAKK8w-7CR2/s400/IMG_5719.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Policemen even wear cowboy hats in Texas!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Road meal: Egg Drop Ramen. In a pot of boiling water mix 3 packet of Chicken Top Ramen, 2 sliced Mexican Zucchini, and 5 eggs. Boil until eggs are just done. Top with avocado and garnish with red chili flakes. </span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4834858614115076040.post-47293388507784182482013-10-21T07:39:00.000-07:002013-10-22T19:57:29.333-07:00Faith<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsXyGfb_m7faN1NVeTZbkroNJCgZgy8_pq7dG2wkuvTVGNFMM01qsm7VT7Xu_s45TnHUOHq6bfdAXYqnBF0uYT8eQelL9K30-9OAiSctnVcjzcIXi8FXBZzr9az8eSL5GHyfBTmhEnwqf/s1600/IMG_5527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsXyGfb_m7faN1NVeTZbkroNJCgZgy8_pq7dG2wkuvTVGNFMM01qsm7VT7Xu_s45TnHUOHq6bfdAXYqnBF0uYT8eQelL9K30-9OAiSctnVcjzcIXi8FXBZzr9az8eSL5GHyfBTmhEnwqf/s400/IMG_5527.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>That deep emotional conviction of the presence of a superior reasoning power, which is revealed in the incomprehensible universe, forms my idea of God.</i><br />
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<i>~Albert Einstein</i><br />
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Jen and I went to church today and I was immediately transported thirty-odd years back into my youth. Sitting in South Lake Steven's Covenant Church in a stuffy v-neck sweater and polyester slacks with the heavy weight of my Dad's hand on my the small of my neck reminding me that church was not a place to fuss. The strong scent of Old Spice permeated the air as I restlessly swung my short legs from the hard pews. I detested the children's talk when I had to go sit in front of the congregation and nod my head like I understood what in the world the pastor was talking about; protest was futile and I endured knowing it always signaled the time that I would soon be able to escape to the refuge of Sunday School to play Bingo and steal a cookie or two from the kitchen along the way.<br />
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I have spent more hours than I am proud of arguing validity of divine belief with my poor Mother but had a bit of an epiphany today as Jen and I walked away from Saint Paul's Methodist Church into the warm El Paso sun. Arguing faith is a waist of precious time and that I am man of great faith. <br />
I have faith that drivers will give us a few feet and maybe slow down a little when they approach us from behind. I have faith that more folks we meet along the way will be kind than hostile to a couple of dirty pedaling travelers from the Northwest. I have faith that Jenny and I will reach the East Coast in a few months and feel better about this country than when we left our home in the Northwest last July.<br />
Logic is not really on my side, to saddle a bike with my lovely wife and try to ride across this great country of roads where the car is king really defies quite a bit of common sense. This is not lost on me, and all I can say is that sometimes you just have to have a little faith.<br />
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Kloshe nanitch<br />
Kloshe konaway<br />
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Matt<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A bets are off now! Jenny has hit a new low.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibDuswqgaxRLVIiBUvE6v96IKB2TfHKF8ctpiDziL1P94HbufrQ9nr1izIyvdWjg_CBLThXT31LIgfo49ymRnZ8Ur2VvGwfwGSbMlKzwxegtzT1mvZOnISScBekx42iSgWEBStQQ0UZEHw/s1600/IMG_5478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibDuswqgaxRLVIiBUvE6v96IKB2TfHKF8ctpiDziL1P94HbufrQ9nr1izIyvdWjg_CBLThXT31LIgfo49ymRnZ8Ur2VvGwfwGSbMlKzwxegtzT1mvZOnISScBekx42iSgWEBStQQ0UZEHw/s400/IMG_5478.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">San Marita copper & gold pit mine. A mere 1600 feet deep. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Emory Pass (8228 ft) is the last major climb in NM before dropping into the Rio Grand drainage </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jen, <a href="http://www.circumgrapher.com/photojournal/">Dimitri </a>and I stopped at the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=black+range+lodge&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8">Black Range Lodge</a> in Kingston, NM looking for water and ended up staying two days. Catherine and Gary were the most gracious and hospitable hosts and any traveler would be remiss not to stay with them if visiting this beautiful region of New Mexico.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Kingsnake is non-venomous and eats other snakes. I am buying my Mom one for Christmas. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hatch, NM. The chile capital of the World.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">We met Fred on the road outside of Radium New Mexico and shared a drink and few stories from the road. Riding for over eight years and ninety thousand miles, Fred is a member of what Jen and I have come to call the "Life Tour Club".</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Rio not-so Grande</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwv3QKuVre_gYZH-Hi9XYw3hRyY2BlyXkj2b1zHzvRihyphenhyphenI97gQ9jABhtRyeDoRwDbi2M4hpqZIWb-KMrZCpNfhBDy_F2bA4vK2QMJs2DvvrkL7TlAKCTQfU7ZrgGjKBbbbCI6skWm9b1e8/s1600/IMG_5540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwv3QKuVre_gYZH-Hi9XYw3hRyY2BlyXkj2b1zHzvRihyphenhyphenI97gQ9jABhtRyeDoRwDbi2M4hpqZIWb-KMrZCpNfhBDy_F2bA4vK2QMJs2DvvrkL7TlAKCTQfU7ZrgGjKBbbbCI6skWm9b1e8/s400/IMG_5540.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2agO4PhJTLs">"Sissy, you ain't gonna ride the bull!" </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I ordered a set of these for our place in Seattle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Our wonderful El Paso host Pam Rowley. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The city of El Paso is visibly indistinguishable from it's neighbor Cuidad Jaurez to the south. Separated by the ditches of the Rio Grande and 30 foot razor wire, Jaurez is different world entirely. Drug violence has made Jaurez one of the most dangerous places in the world while El Paso enjoys one of the lowest murder rates in the United States.</span></div>
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<br />Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11871944390667402565noreply@blogger.com4